something on the funny side... - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2020, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cra-z1 View Post
If you do drill think about a 1/16 roll pin drilled all the way through to each side rather than a series of rivets. The pin would be stronger.
I will look up what a "roll pin" is. It's so hard to go to the hardware store, stand in line outside to keep the customer count down in the store.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2020, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bill Lumberg View Post
The pegs that trex sells for their own cages won’t stay in place?
If they were in stock and I could order them? they would probably do just fine.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2020, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cra-z1 View Post
If you do drill think about a 1/16 roll pin drilled all the way through to each side rather than a series of rivets. The pin would be stronger.
Cra or you can do what I did; drill a hole, tap and use a small bolt (which I sharpened to a point, so it will dig into the TRex bars) No spinning here, for more info check my thread:

https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/10-...ex-guards.html
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2020, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Tap? What does that mean?
Looking at the pictures, I don't understand what you did.
How is this different than drilling a hole?

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2020, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by StratTuner View Post
Tap? What does that mean?
Looking at the pictures, I don't understand what you did.
How is this different than drilling a hole?
It means to drill a very specific size diameter hole that will allow you to make it a threaded hole so that you can screw in a bolt. A special bit is used that you twist into the drilled hole by hand and this special bit cuts the threads inside the drilled hole. These special bits are called taps.

However, and I digress, taps are not used to add threads onto the end of a shaft, for that operation a "die" is used.

I'm sure there are several you-tube videos out there that you can watch. Search "tapping a hole".

Not to be confused with: "Ya, I'd tap that" (vulgar)

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Last edited by JunkJacket; 04-07-2020 at 11:51 PM.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 06:34 AM
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A roll pin is a round pin formed from flat spring steel, thus has a split for its entire length, ends are slightly chamfered so you can get it started into a drilled hole. I would tend to go a little bigger than 1/16 as they do rust over time, say 1/8". Maybe stainless ones are out there? Anyway, you drill your hole slightly smaller, and as you tap it in, it compresses slightly and stays in there due to the interference fit.
If you drill through both sides of the tube, you can always punch it through to remove it at some future date.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 11:02 AM
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something on the funny side...

Quote:
Originally Posted by StratTuner View Post
Tap? What does that mean?
StratTuner,

Pick the size of bolt you want to use, and since the clamp being "drilled and tapped" is fairly thin metal, use National Fine (NF) threads. You do not want to drill holes into your fall bars. A 3/16" screw should do the job.

Drill bits come in numbered sizes. Get the correct numbered drill bit, for the screw that you want to "drill and tap" for. Drill the clamp (not the bars), then use the tap (with the tap handle) to "screw" the tap into the driled hole. When you unscrew the tap, you will have a threaded hole in the clamp. Install the clamp and tighten. Then insert the new screw, and tighten. It helps if you use a grinding wheel to make a shallow point at the end of the screw (not so pointed as a nail or Phillips screwdriver), so the screw makes a tiny dent for itself in the bars.

The advantage here is that you can move the clamp later, tighten everything again, and you will not have unwanted holes (or extra holes) in the fall bars.

As stated earlier, though, you may just need a wrap of grip tape (skateboard tape) on the fall bars to make the clamp grip well enough. Any hardware store will have grip tape.
.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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"tapping" ok i get it. It looks like you DO NOT drill into the crash bar itself if you do that... nice solution.

I have the exact same pegs Damir (thank you for the photos) used coming today, so I'll put some sort of rubber material under them. I have two different, better quality clamps, one is 1" and the 1.25" clamp the pegs come with.

I remain hopeful, but wow, I didn't have anything like this trouble with 1 1/4" bars and Kuryakyn pegs. They worked first time, every time. That's not meant to be a plug, just an indication of my starting place.

But for the home engineer... the struggle with the problem is the fun part...
until it's fixed and we move on to something else.


..

- StratTuner - FJR1300 (2012)
"Time ... , why you punish me? Like the waves breaking on the shore
you wash away my dreams..." - Darius Rucker

Last edited by StratTuner; 04-08-2020 at 11:43 AM.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 11:45 AM
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Buzz's mask looks about right, however Woody looks like he's being kidnapped.

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-20-2020, 10:07 PM
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I used a bicycle tube to secure my highway pegs. Had a little flex to them but I could pretty much put my 230lbs of weight on them with no issues
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