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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-10-2020, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
red
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Fuse Taps

FUSE TAPS. There is a slick piece of electrical hardware to make clean connections for new electrical accessories, called the Fuse Tap. It replaces one fuse from the fuse box, and provides the original fuse protection plus separate fuse protection for your new gadgets, all in one swift move. As with any electrical work, it must be installed correctly to be safe.

Fuse Taps are available at most auto parts stores, or on-line. They come in two sizes, for the standard .25" blade automotive fuses, and a smaller version fuse used by some new cars. Match what you will buy with the fuses used by your vehicle.

Turn OFF the vehicle, and all accessories. Pick a heavy-rated fuse in your fuse box, and remove that fuse. Install a Fuse Tap into that socket space. Turn ON the electrical power (there is no need to start the engine). With NO fuses installed in the Fuse Tap, there should be NO power in the Tap wire. If the Fuse Tap has power in the Tap wire, then the Fuse Tap is installed backwards. Just pull out the Fuse Tap, turn it 180 degrees, and re-install it in the fuse socket. Done correctly, there should be NO power in the Tap wire with the electrical power ON. Install a fuse of the correct Amp rating for your new accessory into the TOP fuse socket of the Fuse Tap. Now there should be full power in the Fuse Tap wire. That much is now done well. Turn OFF all of the electrical power.

Install the original heavy fuse into the BOTTOM socket of the Fuse Tap. Turn ON the electrical power, and everything should work normally. If so, turn OFF the electrical power, and proceed to install good wiring from the Fuse Tap wire to your new accessory.

Some accessories have inline fuses; typically they are the size of a pencil, about one inch (25mm) long, made of glass, with metal end-caps. It is better to use the automotive fuse (with the correct Amp rating for the accessory) in the top socket of the Fuse Tap, and simply eliminate the glass pencil-sized tube fuse altogether. That way, you won't be needing to carry any extra glass fuses, and if a fuse blows out, you will know right where to look for it. In-line fuses are usually just a PITA.

There is an alternative to a Fuse Tap which can be used in small spaces, called a Fuse Blade Tap. It is installed onto the blade of the regular fuse, and it should be crushed to fit on the fuse blade closely. You will need to use a Voltmeter or test-light to be sure you know which end of the fuse socket gets the Fuse Blade Tap, as above. With power ON, there should be NO power at the end of the empty fuse socket where the Fuse Tap Blade will go. If the Fuse Blade Tap is at the wrong end of the fuse socket, then your Tap connection wire would have NO fuse protection. Make sure the Fuse Blade Tap is at the correct end of the existing fuse. Retain and use the glass in-line fuse (as provided by the accessory wiring). Just use the Fuse Blade Tap at the correct end of the normal fuse, and the in-line glass accessory fuse, and you will be good to go. The top of the Fuse Blade Tap is a standard .25" male blade connector, and you can connect any mating female blade terminal to that end. This connector part of the Fuse Blade Tap can be bent over flat across the top of the existing fuse, to fit a connection in small spaces.
See pix, attached.

HTH
.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg FuseTap2.jpg (11.2 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg blade-tap2.jpg (8.7 KB, 6 views)

Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

Last edited by red; 08-10-2020 at 03:05 PM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-10-2020, 07:17 PM
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Uh, I think you have the polarity reversed. With your new fuse tap accessory fuse installed there should be power on the fuse tap wire without reinstalling the original fuse one removed. As described your fuse tap is powering through the fuse you are tapping, adding to its load.

With power off, remove a candidate large fuse from the fuse box.
Insert fuse tap with your new accessory fuse in the accessory position but not the fuse removed from fuse box.
Power on. The fuse tap wire should be hot. If not, reverse the fuse tap orientation.
Install original fuse in the fuse tap.

2018 F-150 XLT SuperCab 4x4 2.7L
2016 FJR1300A
2016 Beta 430 RS
2016 Subaru Outback
2013 Tesla Model S 85
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-10-2020, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Fuse Taps

Quote:
Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
Uh, I think you have the polarity reversed. With your new fuse tap accessory fuse installed there should be power on the fuse tap wire without reinstalling the original fuse one removed. As described your fuse tap is powering through the fuse you are tapping, adding to its load.
With power off, remove a candidate large fuse from the fuse box.
Insert fuse tap with your new accessory fuse in the accessory position but not the fuse removed from fuse box.
Power on. The fuse tap wire should be hot. If not, reverse the fuse tap orientation.
Install original fuse in the fuse tap.
N4HHE,

We can agree to disagree, here. That existing fuse should be able to stand some slight extra load. You would want that existing fuse to fail when wired as I described it. Otherwise, the line to that fuse would be carrying a load that it was not designed to carry. Most accessories will not draw huge power, and if they do, they should be powered by a relay anyway, and the Fuse Tap should just switch ON the relay. The accessories which do draw heavy loads, such as heated clothing, should have an in-line fuse of their own, on the power line running through their relay(s).

I do not suggest putting huge loads on a Fuse Tap. The Fuse Tap can handle it, sure, but the rest of the wiring may not.

An extra blown fuse to an accessory is a minor bother. Burned up harness wiring can be expensive, a disaster, or both. Your choice, certainly.
.

Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-11-2020, 07:51 AM
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Fuse taps are very handy, but as Red says, the original wire can get over loaded, so the additional circuit should be to a low current application such as a trigger wire for a relay or aux. fuse panel or a GPS or USB charger or even a voltmeter.

Ray
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-11-2020, 08:01 AM
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Fuse boxes have a high current buss running the length from which the fuses connect. My F-150 has at least 37 numbered fuse positions, not all are used, but they all connect to a hefty buss bar.

Fuses are sized for safety, not for extra margin that one can borrow for other purposes. The only question of capacity is whether the contacts of the fuse socket can carry extra current. This too is a serious question because ~2009 F-150 fuel pump circuit has a bad habit of burning out the fuse socket. Ford has a retrofit kit that moves the circuit to a larger fuse socket.

The configuration red describes adds a new fuse via the fuse-tap hardware in series with an existing fuse.

I say to orient the fuse-tap so it powers off the hot side of existing fuse not affecting the circuit. Original fuse only carries the original load. New fuse in the fuse-tap carries the new load.

2018 F-150 XLT SuperCab 4x4 2.7L
2016 FJR1300A
2016 Beta 430 RS
2016 Subaru Outback
2013 Tesla Model S 85
2009 Husaberg FE450
1983 Porsche 928S
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-11-2020, 08:06 AM
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The FJR is not an F150... no bus (except in the starter relay), all individual wires to each fuse for the most part.

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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