Is Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin Synthetic Motocycle Motor Oil a good choice?
Or should I use
Yamalube All Purpose 4 Four Stroke Oil 20w-50
Any recommendations are appreciated, moved for riding BMW 1200rs to Yamaha FJR 1300, maintenance was one of the reasons to keep costs down. Any one that has owned a bmw knows the pocket book frequency hits hard.
Just follow the specs (see manual). Oil is not complicated. Synthetic is better in that the viscosity profile is purer than conventional. What that means is that 20 is 20 and 40 is 40 at the tested temperature level (colder/hotter). I consider that to be predictability.
You're looking for the API composition info primarily. Viscosity is 20W40.
(from the Manual for my '07)
Type
SAE20W40
Recommended engine oil grade
API service SE, SF, SG type or
higher
Just follow the specs (see manual). Oil is not complicated. Synthetic is better in that the viscosity profile is purer than conventional. What that means is that 20 is 20 and 40 is 40 at the tested temperature level (colder/hotter). I consider that to be predictability.
There are no, zero, nada performance standards for motor oil sold as synthetic. it is marketing which makes unfounded claims as to the inherent superiority of synthetic manufacturing processes.
No new fresh motor oil is going to hurt the FJR. Refined "mineral" Yamalube is a good safe choice, reasonably priced. Good because Yamalube has an excellent reputation the past 50 years.
Otherwise just use something and note how the engine runs, sounds, and shifts. Clutch engagement may also change. Then use an oil which feels best. If you can not tell a difference then there is none of significance.
Some here do not change oil until a noticeable degradation in shift feel appears.
I thought the popular Rotella-T6 5W-40 shifted poorly from the start. Others differ. Maybe 2016 transmission has different sensitivities vs older designs.
I use yamalube. Because it’s cheap, readily available, and it works. Anything that is in line with what the manual specifies will work just fine. All day long.
Be aware that Yamaha's oil recommendations have evolved for this very same engine, and later manuals have a temperature chart.. viscosity recommendations are 10W40 and up to 20W50. If you're in a cooler climate or in general 10W40. The 20W40 thing is a little outdated IMHO, but certainly acceptable. Yamaha marketed it as the oil to use and it was unique... nobody else sold a 20W40 and still may not.
If you're a torque wrench kind of guy, ignore the oil drain bolt torque of 31 ft-lbs and use the final drive drain bolt torque value of 17 ft-lbs. The consensus is that 31 ft-lbs is too much torque and probably a misprint. I agree.
Are you an Orville Reddenbacher kinda guy or another brand? Do you like the ready to cook fake tinfoil frying pan kind? I heard they will make great fire alarms if hung up on the wall >:grin2:
Brand is all preference provided it falls within manufacturer specs. All that matters is how the bike shifts and that you change it on time. Rotella T6 15W-40 is very popular among people on here and was in my bike when I bought it. It was very clunky and I figured that was characteristic of the bike. I changed it to Mobil 1 10W-40 and it was about the same. After about 1000 miles with the new oil it shifts night and day difference in smoothness. It's like butter now. It was sitting before I bought it for about a year so I've got maybe 2500 miles on the oil change I did after buying it and about 1000 miles on the final drive oil I changed (which was nasty). I'm gonna change both again in the spring so it's nice and flushed out.
It's all preference. All that matters is how the bike shifts and that you change it on time. Rotella T6 15W-40 is very popular among people on here and was in my bike when I bought it. It was very clunky and I figured that was characteristic of the bike. I changed it to Mobil 1 10W-40 and it was about the same. After about 1000 miles with the new oil it shifts night and day difference in smoothness. It's like butter now. It was sitting before I bought it for about a year so I've got maybe 2500 miles on the oil change I did after buying it and about 1000 miles on the final drive oil I changed (which was nasty). I'm gonna change both again in the spring so it's nice and flushed out.
I’m not even sure if Yamalube still offers a 20w-40? You won’t hurt the bike with any decent 10w-40 Dino or synthetic. Just make sure it’s motorcycle oil or oil without friction modifiers. I’ve used Yamalube forever but doubt it really matters that much. Go ride your bike and have fun.
I'm not even sure if Yamalube still offers a 20w-40? You won't hurt the bike with any decent 10w-40 Dino or synthetic. Just make sure it's motorcycle oil or oil without friction modifiers. I've used Yamalube forever but doubt it really matters that much. Go ride your bike and have fun.
I do know that if you continue using YamaLube bad things will start to occur.
Such as (to name only a few):
Your hair will become gray and begin to thin.
Your skin will develop wrinkles
Your gums begin to recede
Arteries become harder and loose elasticity
You no longer get carded at the bar
I do know that if you continue using YamaLube bad things will start to occur.
Such as (to name only a few):t
Your hair will become gray and begin to thin.
Your skin will develop wrinkles
Your gums begin to recede
Arteries become harder and loose elasticity
You no longer get carded at the bar[/QUOTE
Is that what happened? Wish you told me that sooner I could have done something about it.
When you're buttering your Jiffy Pop, do you use the old-fashioned real stuff or synthetic... which I suppose is also an edible oil. Or do you not use any at all?
Junk, I only recommend synthetic bee’s wax, just wait until the know-it-all old time purists get a hold on that, but you have to only use the factory service manual torque specs to put it on ! 😳
Mobile 1 20W-50 V-Twin oil is NOT recommended for the FJR! The V-twin oil is not the correct specification for the FJR. This is the information from the Mobil oil technical people.
How would one know this ? Is it because the FJR is not a V-TWIN ? How can one expect the name of something to dictate what it should be used for ? This is making too much sense ... Is olive oil just for lubricating olives ? Is baby oil just for babies ? Is KY oil only to be used in Kentucky ?
I still use 15-50 synthetic cage oil and no clutch slippage but then I just figured the FJR was underpowered and to slow for the clutch to slip....................................
Seriously, I run the Yamalube 15-50 full synthetic because of all the trouble I had initially with the clutch plates sticking together (4th clutch in it now) at my wife’s insistence because of the warranty plus the purchase of the YES extended warranty (best money I’ve spent) ,,,,,, will Yamaha be able to tell what oil you use ? H**l no ! don’t let-the dealer bs you !
But I’ll add that the yamalube is probably the best oil. I’ve used in my bike for shifting which includes several different Rotella’s and Mobil 1’s it is a noticeable difference but it is expensive at $15/qrt ,,, plus I’m pretty sure it’s no longer available, but it will make your teeth whiter and give you a better Sex life��
I believe the important thing here is regular oil/filter changes to keep thing working properly, use what you Like but make sure it at least meets the specs in your owners manual... my .02
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