2008 FJR 1300a oil recommendations - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-12-2020, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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2008 FJR 1300a oil recommendations

Is Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin Synthetic Motocycle Motor Oil a good choice?

Or should I use

Yamalube All Purpose 4 Four Stroke Oil 20w-50

Any recommendations are appreciated, moved for riding BMW 1200rs to Yamaha FJR 1300, maintenance was one of the reasons to keep costs down. Any one that has owned a bmw knows the pocket book frequency hits hard.
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post #2 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-12-2020, 09:01 PM
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Just follow the specs (see manual). Oil is not complicated. Synthetic is better in that the viscosity profile is purer than conventional. What that means is that 20 is 20 and 40 is 40 at the tested temperature level (colder/hotter). I consider that to be predictability.

You're looking for the API composition info primarily. Viscosity is 20W40.

(from the Manual for my '07)

Type
SAE20W40

Recommended engine oil grade
API service SE, SF, SG type or
higher

ACEA standard
G4 or G5

Bruce

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post #3 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-12-2020, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvbruce View Post
Just follow the specs (see manual). Oil is not complicated. Synthetic is better in that the viscosity profile is purer than conventional. What that means is that 20 is 20 and 40 is 40 at the tested temperature level (colder/hotter). I consider that to be predictability.
There are no, zero, nada performance standards for motor oil sold as synthetic. it is marketing which makes unfounded claims as to the inherent superiority of synthetic manufacturing processes.

No new fresh motor oil is going to hurt the FJR. Refined “mineral” Yamalube is a good safe choice, reasonably priced. Good because Yamalube has an excellent reputation the past 50 years.

Otherwise just use something and note how the engine runs, sounds, and shifts. Clutch engagement may also change. Then use an oil which feels best. If you can not tell a difference then there is none of significance.

Some here do not change oil until a noticeable degradation in shift feel appears.

I thought the popular Rotella-T6 5W-40 shifted poorly from the start. Others differ. Maybe 2016 transmission has different sensitivities vs older designs.

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post #4 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-12-2020, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
There are no, zero, nada performance standards for motor oil sold as synthetic. it is marketing which makes unfounded claims as to the inherent superiority of synthetic manufacturing processes.

No new fresh motor oil is going to hurt the FJR. Refined “mineral” Yamalube is a good safe choice, reasonably priced. Good because Yamalube has an excellent reputation the past 50 years.

Otherwise just use something and note how the engine runs, sounds, and shifts. Clutch engagement may also change. Then use an oil which feels best. If you can not tell a difference then there is none of significance.

Some here do not change oil until a noticeable degradation in shift feel appears.

I thought the popular Rotella-T6 5W-40 shifted poorly from the start. Others differ. Maybe 2016 transmission has different sensitivities vs older designs.

I'm fairly new on the forum but of the forums I've been a member of over the years, oil threads are long and contain lots of contention. Over on the SV Portal for mainly owners of SV1000s, an old salty member by the name of Chainsaw Willie! has a couple of great posts that I have shared on numerous forums over the years. I don't have enough posts to place the links to the SV Portal that contain these statement so I'll just copy and paste them here.

Originally posted by Chainsaw Willie! on the SV Portal.

"Perhaps H-e-l-l will be...

AN ETERNAL, ENDLESS, AND INFINITE OIL THREAD.

Sinners will be fitted for their suit of flame,
Set in a cubicle of flame, in a office chair of flame,
in front of a PC of flame...

That only displays one web page dedicated to an oil thread!

You cannot ride a bike, you cannot wrench a bike, you cannot even see a bike.

You can only read, post, and argue about oil.

FOR ALL ETERNITY!

now y'all thinkin' you better be changing your ways?"

And the best one is below:

Originally posted by Chainsaw Willie! on the SV Portal.

"Really, has anybody here ever had a bike long enough to wear it out?
Has anybody had a piston seizure, or a bearing failure, stuck valve, or any other lubrication failure on a motorcycle in the last 20 years?

The last bike I had for 40,000 miles. I changed the oil about twice a year, and used whatever was on sale. When sold, it still had like new compression and didn't burn a drop of oil.

How many folk here have owned a bike for 10 years? I don't think most keep a bike for 5 years before buying something different. How would you know one oil is protecting better than the other? The typical bike owner simply doesn't own a bike long enough to wear it out.

Prepare for monster Chainsaw Willie! rant.

Modern Japanese bikes don't wear out, they are killed by their masters.

1. They get loving care for the first three years.

2. Then they get sold to some young thrasher who either destroys it in a single vehicle accident or they keep it for two years then sell it to an even younger and even more clueless thrasher.

3. Finally it ends up in the hands of someone who rides less than 1000 miles a year. This guy leaves it in the pounding rain all winter and is surprised to find the battery dead on the first sunny day in spring. He borrows a charger from his mothers boyfriend and manages to get the now damaged battery to hold just barely enough juice to start the bike once. After this first sunny day of spring the guy only rides the bike 3 more times that year. Since he doesn't want to spend cash on replacing the worthless battery he has to charge the battery each time he rides it. And now the charging system is starting to strain from constantly being at full output pumping electrons into a partially shorted battery. Motorcycle riding becomes too much of a pain in the butt and he leaves it parked for another winter in the rain. Next year the fuel has turned harder than epoxy and has completely plugged the pilot jets.

4. It won't start at all and is traded to a girlfriends brother for a case of Schmidt beer. The new owner buys a battery, but can only occasionally get it to start, and it dies at idle. He eventually decides that Jap bikes are cheap crap and buys a leather Harley Davidson baseball cap to wear to the tavern.

5. The bike gets pushed behind a dumpster at a crack motel and remains there untill the motel owner pushes it out to the street where is sits on display like a dead possum until the county picks it up and puts it in impound. 6 months later it is sent to a metal recycler and smashed into 1000 Schlitz Malt Liquor cans. And up to this last point the crank bearings, cam lobes, piston rings, and all the other parts bathed in oil, still have 100,000 miles of usable life left on them.

HEAR ME NOW, AND BELIEVE ME LATER

THIS IS THE FATE OF 75% OF ALL THE YAMAHA R6'S SOLD TODAY!

Does anybody remember the Kawasaki ZX600 Ninja of 1985?
It was a cutting edge sportbike,
then one of the greatest squid magnets of the late '80s and early '90s,

NOW THE LAST OF 'EM ARE PARKED BEHIND DUMPSTERS AT YER MOTHERS PLACE!

Oil doesn't kill motorcycles. People kill motorcycles.

This isn't 1953, it's actually kinda hard to find bad oil in 2004! Just about any motor oil you get will be good and any Motorcycle oil you get will also be good and may also tolerate a longer interval between changes.

I wonder how many sportbikes with coffee colored brake fluid are
sitting parked in the rain with $28 worth of oil in the crankcase.

Your bike is significantly more likely to be run over and crushed by a
Pennzoil truck than throw a rod because you didn't buy Motul.

END RANT MODE

...and now back to your normal motorcycle forum, which is already in progress..."






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post #5 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-12-2020, 11:50 PM
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Read the manual. Do what it says.

Ignore forum mumbo jumbo.
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post #6 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 04:30 AM
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I use yamalube. Because it’s cheap, readily available, and it works. Anything that is in line with what the manual specifies will work just fine. All day long.
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post #7 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Yamalube All Purpose 4 Four Stroke Oil 20w-40

Will be the choice! Priced right!
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post #8 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 08:02 AM
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Be aware that Yamaha's oil recommendations have evolved for this very same engine, and later manuals have a temperature chart.. viscosity recommendations are 10W40 and up to 20W50. If you're in a cooler climate or in general 10W40. The 20W40 thing is a little outdated IMHO, but certainly acceptable. Yamaha marketed it as the oil to use and it was unique... nobody else sold a 20W40 and still may not.
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post #9 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 09:43 AM
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Here's the link to your owners manual in case you don't have one:

https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/as...1300A_1543.pdf

If you're a torque wrench kind of guy, ignore the oil drain bolt torque of 31 ft-lbs and use the final drive drain bolt torque value of 17 ft-lbs. The consensus is that 31 ft-lbs is too much torque and probably a misprint. I agree.
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...etc.

Last edited by Gitbox; 01-13-2020 at 09:50 AM.
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post #10 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 09:58 AM
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.......and, here we go!!!!

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