Oil - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Oil

I know this can be a touchy subject for some - just like tires, which paint colour is the fastest, and blinker fluid choices. That being said, if you are looking for a comprehensive article on motorcycle oil, check this out:

Executive Summary: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil

Full Article: https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oil.html

And yes, I run Shell Rotella T6 5W40 in my FJR. I also ran it in my '92 FJ1200 for over 100,000 km and never had a problem.

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 07:37 AM
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I believe that data completely. I know some serious dudes (mileage wise) that run Rotella. That said, years ago, when I bought my first FJR, I knew I planned running it to 100,000. I compared the cost of a popular “should work fine” oil filter, and of a couple of different alternative oil choices, to the cost of Yamaha filters and yamalube conventional over 100,000 miles. Over the (my ownership) life of the bike, I didn’t find the cost difference significant enough to switch. I’m on my second bike running (usually) Yamaha filters and Yamaha oil.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 08:13 AM
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I have no problem using Rotella, everything i’ve Used it in worked fine but with the fjr (currently Rotella t5 semi-syn 10w-40) i’ve Pretty much stuck with the yamalube 15w-50 full syn, expensive but really good stuff, no complaints. I believe that so long as you change the oil/filter regularly the fjr will be happy and give you A long life.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 10:07 AM
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I would add that Calsci makes the common mistake of assuming "friction modifiers" only reduce friction. If that was true then they would be called, "friction reducers". A case in point: one desires friction modification to increase bite of one's wet plate clutch. Another example is in automotive manual transmissions where the friction between bronze and steel is increased for better synchro function. Friction is not automatically reduced (or increased) between all materials. Clutch plates are made of different material than is found in automobile engines so the biggest issue with automobile oils is that they are not tested with motorcycle clutch material. The feared "friction modifiers" are trying to reduce the friction between metals, not metal and fiber.

The motorcycle community has heavily tested the so-called "diesel" oils and found to be satisfactory. But many want the comfort of formal blessing from JASO.

My favorite oil is/was the old red cap Mobil-1 15W-50. My dirtbikes loved it. Quiet and shifted sweet. I tried the current gold cap in FJR and didn't like the way it shifts. Valvoline T4 and Castrol ActEvo better. Didn't like Rotella-T6 either. My BMW F800S thinks Delo 15W-40 is the greatest thing ever, better than the $20/qt BMW synthetic boutique oil the dealer used.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 12:00 PM
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My bike hates Rotella. Clunky downshifting, sticky upshifting. I dumped that crap when members starting suggesting I add some STP. Rotella is on my list of "to be avoided at all times" list, now and forever.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 03:47 PM
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I wouldn't forever dismiss Rotella. It just doesn't seem to agree with Yamaha transmissions.

Just as the Michelin R5 might be a great tire on a Honda CB500.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 04:18 PM
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Depends on what Rotella oil is used.

I have run T6 (blue bottle) and most of my bikes shifted rough after about 1000 miles.

For the last 10 years, I have used the Rotella T4 (white bottle, JASO approved) 15w40 and have had stellar results with it. The new-to-me FJR is at about 2500 miles with the Rotella T4 in it and no problems.

My 135,000 mile Kawasaki ZRX1200 has run nothing but Rotella T4 15w40 and up to 7000 mile changes while on two-week trips. Blackstone Labs has tested the oil out of that bike 4 times now and every test comes back with excellent results. I even have them run the TBS to see how much life is left in the oil and they have said I could safely extend the service life out to 9000 miles on the change. Not that I am going to do that, but there were still enough additives and viscosity life in that oil to go further.

That all being said, I don't buy Rotella to save a few bucks, as the wife and I live comfortably. I do have plenty of Rotella 15w40 here to change on my tractor, mower, truck, three bikes and whatever else comes along. The wife's new Mazda gets 10w30 T5 Rotella. The oil works for my needs, is readily available and doesn't hurt a thing. Remember, I use the JASO approved Rotella.

This is just a report of what I do. In no way am I suggesting whatever oil anyone else may use is wrong. So before anyone gets their knickers in a bunch and whatnot, this is a IMHO and YMMV post.

ReRose will come by and say he uses Rotella as a flush oil, but in reality, what he neglects to say is he has to use flush oil because he can't keep carburetors from leaking fuel into the crankcases of his bikes. He's just cursed like that.

Current bikes in the barn...
2008 Yamaha FJR1300A
2002 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 135,000 miles
2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
2001 Kawasaki ZRX1200, in pieces
1970 Honda Trail 70
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 04:47 PM
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I only use Amsoil in my bikes and cars.

My first car was a motorcycle.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 05:06 PM
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Anyone try the Delo 400? It's at Costco. Maybe I try it once. I think I could use the rest in my old sedan if I don't like it, but would skip it if someone has already been there.

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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btl68 View Post
For the last 10 years, I have used the Rotella T4 (white bottle, JASO approved) 15w40 and have had stellar results with it. The new-to-me FJR is at about 2500 miles with the Rotella T4 in it and no problems.
Picking nits, JASO does not approve of any Rotella. Shell self-certifies Rotella-T's meet JASO MA. And am quite certain the T6 was marked by Shell as being JASO MA compliant.

Download and read JASO T-903 and T-904 specs. Half the certification is an accounting exercise of particulars extracted from other oil certifications one is expected to meet before trying JASO MA. The only new/unique test is the wet plate clutch friction tests. There are no transmission compatibility requirements.

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