To reach throttle bodies and spark plugs one must remove the gas tank bolt at the seat to slide the gas tank back. It will not pivot on this bolt lifting at the front without hitting the Helibar Bridge.
Additionally one must remove the Helibar Bridge to access the top steering stem nut, to remove the top fork bridge, to reach the spanner nuts underneath to adjust preload of steering bearings.
IIRC one must remove the top fork bridge (its not a "triple clamp", only has 2 clamps) in order to cut and remove a very stiff wire cable routing guide to free slack in cables and wires for the Helibar Bridge. So while one is in there, adjust the preload on bearings. Its only a few more minutes. Later will take over an hour because you will have to take the Helibar Bridge off the fork top bridge.
Perhaps the hardest part of installing the Helibar is threading the nuts and washers from underneath the fork top bridge on the smaller forward bolts which insert from the top. Hint: place the washer over the threads and tape it in place while you start the nut on threads. Then remove tape, tighten nut. Otherwise you will (probably) repeatedly drop nuts and washers, lost in the bowels of your FJR.
And speaking of tape, do the same for the two pretty bolts at the front of the gas tank. Drop one into the FJR and it will be lost forever. IIRC they cost about $3.50 each. I see a lot of FJRs with cheap hex head bolts which work perfectly fine. Duct tape, masking tape, shipping tape, even Scotch tape. Doesn't take much to keep the bolt from getting lost.
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