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Thread: Overflow tank
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
Rustedpalm
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Rougemont,NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustedpalm View Post
Ok so mine is connected to the bottom, however, the spout it's attached to is totally sealed up. It looks like it melted. And no fluid will pass through. So at about 4 bars on the gauge it starts to lose fluid around that hose and then runs hot. Gets up to the last bar flashing.
Crud will accumulate at the bottom.

The reservoir should have one hose out the top running somewhere safe to vent under the vehicle. Normally this breathes air. If disaster strikes it can blow steam.

Generally there is a space in the neck where radiator cap installs which is routed to the bottom of the reservoir. The radiator cap has two seals, one spring loaded at the bottom. Another larger in diameter at the top. When pressure overcomes the spring hot steam vents out the hose to the reservoir.

When engine cools coolant contracts it produces a vacuum. In the center of the spring loaded plunger of radiator cap is a smaller metal plate which is very lightly spring loaded. Vacuum opens this plate and draws liquid from the reservoir. You can open it with your fingernail to verify it is not stuck.

For the system to work the top seal of the radiator cap must be good else the vacuum will suck air. The hose to reservoir must not collapse under suction. And the fitting at the reservoir must not be blocked.

I think you have two related problems. A blocked reservoir will not overheat your engine. When coolant is changed a working reservoir is necessary to burp air out of the engine. Every heat cycle vents to reservoir and whatever air is in the system tends to be at top of radiator so the first thing out is air. Cooling draws liquid back. If there is any more air the next heat cycle will vent air out, liquid in. Repeats until all air is gone. Then heating vents hot liquid coolant.

Air in the cooling system results in lower cooling capacity. But not huge losses in cooling as seems to be your problem. Not unless your engine coolant level is significantly low. Start by checking quantity at the radiator cap. And fix the reservoir.
Yep, this is what I'm thinking. I just bought this bike. PO said he flushed and filled the system. I believe he only idled it for a few minutes. As I rode it it warmed up enough to open the cap and push fluid to the tank. But since the tank is blocked it simply leaked out onto the ground. At this point the system was low on coolant which could make it run hot. I doubt he burped it properly so it probably also had air trapped. Does that sound logical?
Any way I'm replacing the tank because it's obviously bad.

2004 FJR1300A
2017 Royal Enfield Continental GT 535
I ride bikes cause four wheels are much harder to lean🤪
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