Brake Pad Pins - Replacement GenII & III - Page 3 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-22-2020, 08:55 AM
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On my old '04 FJR and current '07 FZ6, after about 20K miles, my ft brakes would also drag. Cleaning the calipers would help but wouldn't fix the issue.

Per my FZ owners manual, the caliper O-rings should be replaced every TWO YEARS. I don't know what the FJR calls for. Both bike are non-ABS bikes and the calipers looked identical.

Prior to service, I might be able to get one "fee spin" of the wheel, (on the CC, spin by hand as hard as possible). Put a spot of masking tape on the sidewall to count rotations..

After the service, well over 4 "free spins"..

*Blowing away old brake dust occasionally also seems to help keeping the calipers clean..

A video of my FZ AFTER the service. Pads are in their normal, operating position:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/40215609850/



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2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 01-22-2020 at 08:58 AM.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-22-2020, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Same as Scott... What I find is brake dust build-up can inhibit free movement of pads, and build-up on caliper pistons won't allow them to retract fully. When changing pads of course, but when you change tires, why not clean the pins, pads, and give the caliper pistons a little toothbrush and brake fluid scrub. Put everything back dry (wipe with isopropanol if you like) so it doesn't attract dust/dirt. If there are slide pins that need hi-temp brake grease lube, do those too.
Your brake rotors float on their rivets, give them a spin (with a screwdriver or other tool) to clean them out (you might hear a click/clunk for the next few days, it's normal). A little preventative maintenance should keep your pad wear more even.

Ray
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-22-2020, 05:33 PM
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I took it apart and gave it a good cleaning. Itís raining today so Iím not riding it yet. I may not be able to ride for another week, but Iíll update when I do.

Jim
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-22-2020, 08:04 PM
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After I clean mine I apply just a touch of waterproof wheel bearing grease to the sliding surfaces and pins. This seems to help some with uneven wear of pads and sticking. It may well be the caliper pistons sticking but it could be the pads themselves, too. If you prefer something a bit more task specific, stop by any auto parts place and pick up a packet or two of brake lube. They're cheap, like $1.29 or so, and apply sparingly.

Russ
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-22-2020, 10:29 PM
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After I clean mine I apply just a touch of waterproof wheel bearing grease to the sliding surfaces and pins. This seems to help some with uneven wear of pads and sticking. It may well be the caliper pistons sticking but it could be the pads themselves, too. If you prefer something a bit more task specific, stop by any auto parts place and pick up a packet or two of brake lube. They're cheap, like $1.29 or so, and apply sparingly.
I do the same thing. I always have caliper grease on hand.

Jim
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2020, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Don't you find the greasy pins then collect dust and dirt? They are supposed to be dry. The only place you grease is the rear caliper pivots....
I suppose a little film might be OK if you check them often enough and clean off as necessary....
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2020, 04:41 PM
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Don't you find the greasy pins then collect dust and dirt? They are supposed to be dry. The only place you grease is the rear caliper pivots....
I suppose a little film might be OK if you check them often enough and clean off as necessary....
No, never have seen a problem like that. But I might check/clean/re-lube more often than most simply due to the rain and dirt roads I ride in/on. And I'm not talking about slathering the pins with grease, just a very thin film after cleaning. I also put a little on the sliding points of the brake pads and the piston-to-pad contact area. Amazing how quiet braking can be- no squeaks or clunks- and pads & rotors will generally last significantly longer when everything moves freely all the time.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2020, 11:07 PM
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No, never have seen a problem like that. But I might check/clean/re-lube more often than most simply due to the rain and dirt roads I ride in/on. And I'm not talking about slathering the pins with grease, just a very thin film after cleaning. I also put a little on the sliding points of the brake pads and the piston-to-pad contact area. Amazing how quiet braking can be- no squeaks or clunks- and pads & rotors will generally last significantly longer when everything moves freely all the time.
An update to my last post. I decided to pull apart the right side front caliper today (left caliper yesterday) and give everything a good cleaning. One thing I did not mention yesterday was that one pin had some galling where the pad hole rests on the pin. I made a mental note of it which is part of the reason I did the other side today. I wanted to see if any others had the galling.

A couple of months ago I had some squealing on my Superduke rear brake which I had not been using very much. I rebuilt it and noticed the same type of galling so I replaced the pin with a new one.

Of the four pins on the front brakes of the FJR, only one has galling on it. I am going to buy all new pins. It seems logical that with the pad hole sitting in the valley of the gall, the top of the pad will no longer move. As the pad wears it will cause the pad to contact the disk at a slight angle.

Any thoughts on this are welcome.

Jim
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2020, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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If there's a groove inhibiting pad movement, yes I'd replace the pin. The OEM Yammie's are kinda pricey..... I'd just replace the one(s) you need to.
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-24-2020, 11:45 AM
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I followed Ray's advice and bought Honda pins just a couple months ago. Like $4.00 each, just a bit longer and they have nice bolt head instead of using an allen wrench.

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