Thanks Raymond, but I've been around automotive products for a few days, more like 50 years. That filter cross references about a dozen other filters from Wix, Purolator, Mobil 1, etc, etc. Unlike cartridge filters, spin on's fit lots of vehicles. Those other filters that the 3323 and D3323 match, have worked on five motorcycles and three cars I have owned. The majority of motorcycle spin of filters are car filters. What this means to me is that the Bosch filters have some loose manufacturing specs when it comes to the container of the filter. That was especially true on my first issue with the D3323. You could measure the difference between the threads and the rubber seal on the defective one and the rest of the filters on the shelf. I'll be passing this information on to the MC community.
I don't have near the expertise a lot of you guys do, so I've always been a little hesitant to use a filter just because it fits. When I decided to use Wix I went to their web page and looked up the filter for my bike. If it hadn't been there, I'd have done something else.
seriously hope you guys are joking
there are places in an engine that dont drain well
there are places that cavitate & maybe there are air pockets
truly OLD / AGED oil will grow microbes / fauna / acids
you really dont want to run that back up into the engine
using a thin weight oil at a high temperature will clean an engine well
to clean a sump if youre NOT going to drop the pan
use cheap thin oil at very high temps.......220-240 degrees
pour in 6 quarts that will have a level higher than the standard 4 quarts .........drain then pour in 6 quarts
kerosene at very high degrees
DO NOT RUN ENGINE !!!!!
running the engine flows detritus up INTO the engine
HIGH DEGREES obtained from heating with boiling water NO OPEN FLAMES
even tho the engine hasnt been run for an extended period o time
last time it ran more than likely it drained most o the oil back to the sump ................................
after the kerosene replace with oil run engine as hot as possible
at a fast idle there is little load on the engine
high temp for a few minutes is Not usually detrimental
the sump will be clean
new oil will flow & flush
the new filter will do ALL the work
if the lifters pump up & quiet down
good oil pressure on a gauge
no miracles performed
better NOT to pump old oil up into the engine
Good write up, but how often do you think ya need to do something like that? My 2014 was on its third change when I dumped it the other day. Old oil was in there between 3 and 4K. It was dark brown but it sure wasn't like chocolate milk. Yes, the man said there is maybe a quart of oil lurking inside that engine. That sounds like a lot, maybe not. But in any event the new stuff will wash out the old. If your anal about oil like me get good stuff and change filters every time you change oil. Oh, BTW, oil will change colors to a dark brown because of the heat of the engine. Ever think we just might worry about oil too much????
Note: pretty soon I'll be going to 8K oil changes. This change was a preemptive strike because I'm going to do some rides where the miles will accumulate when I'm in no man's land and don't want to be thinking about changing oil or tires or other stuff.
I was sort of wondering how you'd get all the kerosene out if there's still a quart of liquid in the engine after draining.
this is NOT complicated at all .................
when you shut your engine down there is a residual amount left up near valves etc
not much at all actually in most engines a cup or less
if NO gunk / varnish / sludge
that residual cup UP IN the engine should NOT cause issues
later when new GOOD oil starts to circulate
NEVER run old bad oil back up into the engine ! ! ! ! ! !! !
by running HOT oil down a metal funnel into the sump
it will melt the old oil
by using MORE than whats in there it will also usually
be high enuf to touch the pump
thereby giving it a cleaning also
D R A I N ! ! ! ! ! DO NOT TURN ENGINE OVER ! ! ! !
the HOT kerosene will C L E A N EVERYTHING ! ! ! !
drain & remove ALL oil & detritus
there again the 6 quarts HOT KERO down a metal funnel
clears out old new oil &/ fauna etc
let sit & drain ........................ DO NOT RUN ENGINE ! ! !
when you then pour in good oil
id use a good brand 10 weight run for short distance .......
a few hundred miles new filter
DRAIN ..................... see what you have
if done properly youll have not bad oil
or funky which means 2 things
you didnt follow what is easy to do
or the engine was a window planter
either way if you dont want to tear down have the bike apart
youre only out the cost od 12quarts cheap oil
6 quarts of kero & a complete saturady
on the center stand the remedy oil & the kero will
drain rather freely out the sump
dont know what your goin to turn upside down & shake??????????????????
dont know WHY there would be a quart of Kero left in engine
[ i never said leave a quart in engine ]
if you know what youre going to p/u & shake.......let me sell tickets
otherwise if the engine is out the bike remove sump + valve covers clean......
put back together
USE NO OPEN FLAMES TO HEAT OIL OR KERO
WATER BOILS AT 212 TO 220 = plenty hot !!!!!
use cheap pans 1 with enuf water to boil
the other that will fit inside the first pan with 6 quartz oil & then kero
please dont burn yourself
cheap $1.50 oil
No disrespect intended but aren't we pole vaulting over mouse turds here ? Are we really considering the prospect of running kerosene through an engine and measuring temperatures etc ?
No doubt that the engine would be squeaky clean but isn't the goal here to find REASONABLE solutions to our problems ?
Guys get 200k-300k out of these engines by just changing the oil with good quality oil at twice the recommended interval.
I get the desire to do everything "perfectly" but man, seriously ?
The answer to your inquiry "how often do you think ya need to do something like that?", respectfully, the answer is a NEVER ...
If any bike ever needs that level of maintenance, I'm finding a new hobby ... :wink2:
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