High-G FJR Junkie!
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Silver City, Montana
I've towed motorcycles from Alaska to the lower 48 in conjunction with a move and have towed them long distances when making military moves; never had a problem.
You need a good wheel chalk for the front; preferably one that locks the wheel in place once the bike is pushed in place. No side stand or center stand used. (I do tie down the bike on the side stand when on ferry trips) Tie to each front fork below the suspension using a ratchet strap. You do not want to compress the suspension as part of your tie down. The tie down point on the floor for the forks should be forward of the front edge of the tire and about 18-24 inches out to each side. Make sure the tie downs have some sort of positive safety to keep them attached to the tie down points on the bike and floor. Open hooks can come completely off the attachment point if the strap becomes a little loose. I cut off the hooks and use snap links. There are short straps that you can use to make the attachment to the bike and then attach the metal part of the strap to it to avoid damage. The use of something like a Canyon Dancers on a heavy bike like the FJR is a very bad idea IMHO.
In the back wrap the strap twice around the rear wheel/tire just above the point where it contacts the floor. The tie down points on the floor for the rear should again be 18-24 inches out on each side and 18-24 inches behind the back edge of the rear tire. This strap will be difficult to get equally tight on both sides initially, but after a few miles you can tighten it again.
This has worked for me on trips of over 2600 miles. I normally check the bike and make adjustments to the straps after 10 and then again at 30 miles. Seldom do I need to make another adjustment after that.
The Outpost, Silver City, MT
2018 Ural Gear Up, 2017 R1200GSA