I think at minimum you need:
A drift with about 3/16” diameter flat tip. About 9” long. If it is much longer it is hard to hold everything when driving the new inner bottom bearing over the steering stem.
I also had a steel rod 1/2” diameter 14” or longer. Thus was very handy to drive the upper outer race out of the chassis. That has to be done from underneath where there isn’t enough room to swing hammer to use the other drift which works great from the top.
Motion Pro makes a $50 bearing race driver kit that greatly helps hold the outer races square when driving them into the chassis. Some say Harbor Freight offers a similar kit. Be sure to bring a new race to verify fit. Another said his O’Reilly, Autozone, etc, rents/loans tools and had the race driver.
Note the All-Balls tapered bearings kit packs the bearings and races paired. Do not mix bearing and race because they are manufactured together. Open only one bearing/race bag, don’t open the other until immediacy before need.
The spanner adapter is available on eBay for about $25. Use a 6” socket extension on torque wrench so you can not apply a side load on the nut then there will be no torque correction or fudge factor.
Most anything can be used under the exhaust headers to support the front while you work on it. Lift the tire about 2” off the ground so the wheel will roll out from under the fender.
Do not disassemble the brakes. There is a plate under the bottom fork bridge which the brake lines run. Think it is held by a single 10 mm hex head bolt.
The air chisel thing really works but there is a lot of opportunity for tool to slip and mar soft aluminum. A Demel mototool with cutoff wheel can cut a horizontal slot for the air chisel to drive with less chance of slippage.
Traditionally we cut a vertical slit then finished breaking through with hammer and cold chisel. The cutoff wheel can not cut all the way through with the race at the bottom. A cold chisel and hammer can slowly walk the race up. Might take an hour or two.
Especially if you call in advance, automobile machine shops can remove the inside lower race for you then install new bearing. Make sure they understand the seal has to go on first, bearing second.
This looks like it would be handy for removing the inner bottom race: https://www.harborfreight.com/bearin...tor-63662.html
In any case cut a vertical slit all the way through the old race. Then use this race upside down to drive the new bearing on the stem. The slit makes it trivial to remove with a screwdriver.