Bearing service - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-29-2020, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Bearing service

Retorqued the steering bearing but wobble is still there. So need new bearings at 3200 mi as it's getting worse as it's too annoying to ride at this point. I want to learn to work on my own bike but don't see much detail on removing lower tree in Haynes manual. They imply I should already know what I am doing. Or is it difficult enough if I need to ask I shouldn't try?
Can't find it searching forum and give up. Is there a thread that covers the removal? Thanks, Jim
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-29-2020, 04:13 PM
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I just Googled "FJR steering head bearings". There should be several sites that can help you.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-29-2020, 04:39 PM
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I just did mine last month. Toughest part for me was setting lower race on frame/tube (due to access) and then removing the old race from the lower bracket. I had a cut-off tool with metal wheel. Used old race to re-install new onto the lower bracket. Took around 3 hours. Removed windshield to give a little more room.

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-29-2020, 04:59 PM
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Bearing service

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Originally Posted by Beacon77 View Post
Retorqued the steering bearing but wobble is still there. So need new bearings at 3200 mi as it's getting worse as it's too annoying to ride at this point. I want to learn to work on my own bike but don't see much detail on removing lower tree in Haynes manual. They imply I should already know what I am doing. Or is it difficult enough if I need to ask I shouldn't try? Can't find it searching forum and give up. Is there a thread that covers the removal?
Thanks, Jim
Jim,

As said, there are a number of FJR forums, at least five, and they will have decent posts on the head bearing change to show you the way. Any more experienced riders can give you good help also; the FJR is fairly conventional in that area. The worst part is probably getting the lower race removed from the fork tree.

Some say to partially cut the lower race with a saw or cutting wheel, then split it off with a hammer and chisel. Some say you can drive it off with a hammer and a drive punch. One guy showed using a power chisel to pop the old race off, in two seconds flat. In any case, cut one side of the lower race with a saw once you get it off, and use the old race as an installation tool to seat the new lower race on the fork tree. Dry ice can shrink the fork tree column, and a toaster oven or heat gun can warm up the new lower race, to help with the installation of the lower race. The rest of the work will be fairly straight-forward.

Since I have open joists in my garage, I can support the bike with ropes when removing the front fork tree. There is also a DIY bike hanger frame, made from a few lengths of black-iron pipe, which can pivot flat later to store against a wall when done. The hanger frame stands on any flat floor. It is only about two feet taller than the bike. Ropes, straps, or chains carry the weight. Heavy ratchet straps are good, there. Search out those posts, if you want.

Worst case, shop around the independent bike shops or dealers for some qualified techs, and get a few estimates. first. In the USA, most states outlaw any shop from trying to go much over the written estimate.
.

Cheers,
Red
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- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-29-2020, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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I'll check other forums also. So the lower bracket does not have to be removed? I was wondering if lower brace had to come out and if so was it a big ordeal. Independent shop near me is reasonable so will stop in there to see what he says. Thanks

" jtlanejr 03:39 PM Today
I just did mine last month. Toughest part for me was setting lower race on frame/tube (due to access) and then removing the old race from the lower bracket. I had a cut-off tool with metal wheel. Used old race to re-install new onto the lower bracket. Took around 3 hours. Removed windshield to give a little more room."
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-29-2020, 05:40 PM
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yes, you have to remove both upper and lower "outer race" on the frame head tube and replace with what comes from the kit. Then there is a bearing seat on the lower bracket (or lower triple tree) that just requires the proper tool to remove. Then reuse that seat to drive on the new part. I loosely set the triple in a vise and drove it in that way. There are several write ups with videos.

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-29-2020, 08:19 PM
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Here's some pics for the OP...
I've done this on my '05 FJR and my old '95 ST11...
On my FJR, the original non-tapers ball bearing set looks great for 60K miles....
I did it just because and not due to any wobble... (I really need to let go of the bars one of these days... LOL).


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Attached Images
File Type: jpg FJR Steering stem.jpg (123.6 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg FJR tree.jpg (121.9 KB, 29 views)

Last edited by Mr. BR; 10-02-2020 at 08:10 PM.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-29-2020, 10:12 PM
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I think at minimum you need:

A drift with about 3/16” diameter flat tip. About 9” long. If it is much longer it is hard to hold everything when driving the new inner bottom bearing over the steering stem.

I also had a steel rod 1/2” diameter 14” or longer. Thus was very handy to drive the upper outer race out of the chassis. That has to be done from underneath where there isn’t enough room to swing hammer to use the other drift which works great from the top.

Motion Pro makes a $50 bearing race driver kit that greatly helps hold the outer races square when driving them into the chassis. Some say Harbor Freight offers a similar kit. Be sure to bring a new race to verify fit. Another said his O’Reilly, Autozone, etc, rents/loans tools and had the race driver.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0550

Note the All-Balls tapered bearings kit packs the bearings and races paired. Do not mix bearing and race because they are manufactured together. Open only one bearing/race bag, don’t open the other until immediacy before need.

The spanner adapter is available on eBay for about $25. Use a 6” socket extension on torque wrench so you can not apply a side load on the nut then there will be no torque correction or fudge factor.

Most anything can be used under the exhaust headers to support the front while you work on it. Lift the tire about 2” off the ground so the wheel will roll out from under the fender.

Do not disassemble the brakes. There is a plate under the bottom fork bridge which the brake lines run. Think it is held by a single 10 mm hex head bolt.

The air chisel thing really works but there is a lot of opportunity for tool to slip and mar soft aluminum. A Demel mototool with cutoff wheel can cut a horizontal slot for the air chisel to drive with less chance of slippage.

Traditionally we cut a vertical slit then finished breaking through with hammer and cold chisel. The cutoff wheel can not cut all the way through with the race at the bottom. A cold chisel and hammer can slowly walk the race up. Might take an hour or two.

Especially if you call in advance, automobile machine shops can remove the inside lower race for you then install new bearing. Make sure they understand the seal has to go on first, bearing second.

This looks like it would be handy for removing the inner bottom race: https://www.harborfreight.com/bearin...tor-63662.html

In any case cut a vertical slit all the way through the old race. Then use this race upside down to drive the new bearing on the stem. The slit makes it trivial to remove with a screwdriver.
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Last edited by N4HHE; 09-29-2020 at 10:14 PM.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-30-2020, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Well I stopped by the local independent shop. Bearing install $400-$600 depending on how long it takes but said stop by with the bike .(Is the lower triple tree that hard to remove?) He looked at my tires which were put on by PO at dealer at some point with 2,700 mi on the bike when I got it. He said tire is starting to cup as it was installed backward. He said Conti Attack should be installed with arrow facing toward the front of the bike and is not a directional arrow . So waiting to hear back from Michelin to confirm that . He said take care of that , then see where the bike is.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-30-2020, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beacon77 View Post
Well I stopped by the local independent shop. Bearing install $400-$600 depending on how long it takes but said stop by with the bike .(Is the lower triple tree that hard to remove?) He looked at my tires which were put on by PO at dealer at some point with 2,700 mi on the bike when I got it. He said tire is starting to cup as it was installed backward. He said Conti Attack should be installed with arrow facing toward the front of the bike and is not a directional arrow . So waiting to hear back from Michelin to confirm that . He said take care of that , then see where the bike is.
Uhhh, what ?

The arrows on the tire are directional arrows. If this guy is telling you to install them backwards, well, your bike your choice but I believe I'd being going elsewhere.
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