Bearing service - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-30-2020, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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He said on Conti roll the bike so the arrow is at the bottom of the tire. The arrow should point foward .There is the word "front" with the arrow and both should face front of the bike . I'm doubting it will cure my wobble. He is a decent guy so I'll give him benefit of doubt and wait to see what Continental says. Going to try and find any info online tonight. Will post as soon as I find out.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-30-2020, 07:10 PM
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He said on Conti roll the bike so the arrow is at the bottom of the tire. The arrow should point foward .There is the word "front" with the arrow and both should face front of the bike . I'm doubting it will cure my wobble. He is a decent guy so I'll give him benefit of doubt and wait to see what Continental says. Going to try and find any info online tonight. Will post as soon as I find out.
Pretty sure not just me, but suggest get away and stay away from that guy.
The arrow on a motorcycle tire is the rotation direction arrow. Plain and simple.
If you do as this "shop" says, and have said arrow on the bottom, and pointng forward, then when you are riding forward, then the tire will be rotating backwards.
The wheels have directional arrows on them too, so is his advice the same ?
It isn't just a Conti thing or brand D, M or B thing. It's how motorcycle tires are made.

Like Russ posted, it's your bike and choice of who works on your stuff, but I would stay far far away from guys like that.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-30-2020, 07:18 PM
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Well I stopped by the local independent shop. Bearing install $400-$600 depending on how long it takes but said stop by with the bike .(Is the lower triple tree that hard to remove?)
You keep asking that question. Is not hard at all to remove the upper and lower fork bridges. It takes about an hour to take everything apart. It takes about an hour to put everything back. It takes about an hour to remove the inner bottom bearing race, remove 2 races from the chassis, and press 2 new races in the chassis, one on the steering stem, plus grease.

Is not hard but if you do it yourself make sure to show it to your wife when it is all apart. Should get a reaction.

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He looked at my tires which were put on by PO at dealer at some point with 2,700 mi on the bike when I got it. He said tire is starting to cup as it was installed backward. He said Conti Attack should be installed with arrow facing toward the front of the bike and is not a directional arrow . So waiting to hear back from Michelin to confirm that . He said take care of that , then see where the bike is.
Arrow facing forward when arrow is above the axle or below the axle?

That dealer is a dolt because the arrow indicates direction of rotation. And "cupping".

No motorcycle tire ever cups. Cupping occurs at one or a few places on the tire spanning multiple tread blocks. Irrespective of the tread pattern. Scalloping is a variation of feathering, both of which are undesirable wear patterns which repeat with every tread block around the tire due to scrubbing. On automobiles feathering usually indicates wheels out of alignment. On motorcycles there isn't anything you can do about it.

Motorcycle tires must scallop due to the rounded profile. The center is larger in diameter than the tread to either side but when both are in contact with the road at the same time the longer circumference and the shorter circumference being forced to move at the same speed must fight each other. One or both will scrub. Tread blocks will squirm under the load. Edges of the tread blocks will wear different than the center of the tread blocks.

Can increase tire pressure to minimize the width of the road contact patch. Narrower width for less difference in rolling circumference for less scrubbing. But also less traction.

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-30-2020, 07:22 PM
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It isn't just a Conti thing or brand D, M or B thing. It's how motorcycle tires are made.
Continental puts direction arrows, brand, and tire model, in the tread of many of their tires, in addition to the mandated DOT arrows at the edges, and others in the sidewall.

I don't doubt the possibility the tire is mounted the wrong direction, but I agree the dealer's explanation is hokey.

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-30-2020, 07:42 PM
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The air chisel thing really works but there is a lot of opportunity for tool to slip and mar soft aluminum. A Demel mototool with cutoff wheel can cut a horizontal slot for the air chisel to drive with less chance of slippage.
.[/QUOTE]

I believe I'm the member who introduced the idea of using an air hammer to remove this race, but what you just described varies quite a bit from my original post. If done exactly as I said without omitting anything, nothing will be damaged. BTW, I didn't use a Dremel to cut the slots either, I used a 3" cutoff wheel in an air tool. Here's my original post on this subject:
I used a cutoff wheel to put a couple of slots in the inner race on my steering stem directly across from each other. Then with the help of an assistant, we put a cold chisel in those slots and using an air hammer with the power reduced to hit the chisel, pushed the race off very easily. We would alternate hitting one side then the other and it slid right off. Didn't put a mark of any kind on the triple tree because it was never touched.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-30-2020, 07:52 PM
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Continental puts direction arrows, brand, and tire model, in the tread of many of their tires, in addition to the mandated DOT arrows at the edges, and others in the sidewall.
I don't doubt the possibility the tire is mounted the wrong direction, but I agree the dealer's explanation is hokey.
Yup, know all that. Suppose in my head shaking over that shops comment, I wasn't clear in my wording.
My mindset and point I was trying to make was all tire brands I know of use directional arrows to indicate direction of rotation.
And shop dude saying "when on the bottom the arrow should point forward" was a Conti tire specification is pure moo poo.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-01-2020, 08:37 AM
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This is what you get when you hire the cheapest help you can get and throw them into the fray with zero training with a management that either just assumes they know what they are doing or plain doesn’t care. A big reason of why “bike shops” are on the endangered species list. The shop manager & I would be discussing this at length.

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-01-2020, 04:23 PM
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Gadzooks.... that's a new one. In my 40 yrs of fooling around with bikes, including a few years working at a dealership where I changed tires, I've NEVER heard the tire directional arrow explained like that.
It's funny and a little sad... and 100% wrong IMO. As stated by others, "the arrow indicates direction of rotation".
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-01-2020, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Continental said tread pattern direction is not an issue. Go with arrow. From searching last night Conti attack front tire mounting had alot of people confused. Was not doing anything until I heard from Conti anyway so I move on. N4HHE ,I kept asking because it's out of my comfort zone . But if it's an hour for you to get apart I'll go for it even if it takes me all day. I have to figure out a way to secure the bike but not worried. I may as well try as losing faith in shops. Dealer is out as they told me bike was serviced when I bought it. Tested coolant ,not serviced. I was more concerned with disassembly to get the tree out than changing the bearings. Local auto machine shop engine builder will do it if I have issues. Just not happy having to tear a 2016es with under 6k mi for what I see as something that should not have been an issue. The wobble bothers me as it's not supposed to be there and I cannot accept that it is. I'm no engineer but I don't see how it would not stress other components as that force is there holding bars or not.

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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-01-2020, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Continental said tread pattern direction is not an issue. Go with arrow. From searching last night Conti attack front tire mounting had alot of people confused. Was not doing anything until I heard from Conti anyway so I move on. N4HHE ,I kept asking because it's out of my comfort zone . But if it's an hour for you to get apart I'll go for it even if it takes me all day. I have to figure out a way to secure the bike but not worried. I may as well try as losing faith in shops. Dealer is out as they told me bike was serviced when I bought it. Tested coolant ,not serviced. I was more concerned with disassembly to get the tree out than changing the bearings. Local auto machine shop engine builder will do it if I have issues. Just not happy having to tear a 2016es with under 6k mi for what I see as something that should not have been an issue. The wobble bothers me as it's not supposed to be there and I cannot accept that it is. I'm no engineer but I don't see how it would not stress other components as that force is there holding bars or not.

2016 ES. in Ct.
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