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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-15-2020, 08:19 PM
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Needed to use the proper size Phillips or JIS, but once rounded out.... I usually use a Phillips electronics screwdriver, replace screws early if damaged....
Way8lifter, you don't have your bike listed, forget what you have. IF a Gen2, alternate way is to unscrew adjuster cable fitting behind the black panel instead... tight quarters.
Before you put the big black rubber boot back on, smear a very thin film of silicone grease on the small ID and the big ID and they'll be much easier to get out and in next time. I do it all by feel now.
I replaced mine with the F2 LED's and havent had to change bulbs in like forever. When I had regular H4 halogens, it seemed like every 1 1/2 years I'd be in there. One would go and the other within minutes or hours later, so replace in sets.

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
1999 VFR800Fi - Pearl Shining Yellow
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-15-2020, 09:08 PM
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The adjusters are stripped out, or just the small screws? If just the screws, you can buy replace socket cap screws from any hardware store.
M3-.05 X 10 mm
You will need a 2.5 mm Allen wrench to install and remove. You can also find regular cross point screws in the same size, but I prefer the Allens.

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2013 FJR1300A
1984 GPz750
Series III fairing removal:
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-15-2020, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Way8lifter View Post
what I did not include was the little adjusters screws are stripped on mine .. so I cant get the cover off the get to the bulbs I want to go LED but cant access yet
I wish you would put in your signature your model year. It would be so, so helpful. To create or edit your sig, hover over the word 'TOOLS' in the black bar near the top of the page. A drop-down menu appears, click on 'USER CP'. Then on the left you will see "EDIT SIGNATURE". Click it, do it and save it.

You don't necessarily have to remove the knobs to remove the panels. Remove the fasteners and unsnap the panels. Look on the back and you might see, depending on your model year, that the adjuster cable attaches with a knurled knob. Unscrew the knob and remove the panel. This may also be helpful, depending on your model year, to not screw up (a pun, HA!) any small screw removal attempts.
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Russ
2007A

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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-15-2020, 10:20 PM
red
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For your entertainment

Owners,

I would like to put in a plug for JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) cross-point "Apex" style bits. They look like Phillips bits, and some others, but they are different. They will not strip our imported screw heads as easily as using the wrong tool would. The JIS items (bits and screwdrivers) are the right tools to fit our bike screws. Amazon has some, and McMaster-Carr:

https://www.mcmaster.com/bits/screwd...jis-jcis-bits/

I have several "bit holder" screwdrivers of lengths from stubby to long bladed. I also have a small "thumbwheel" bit holder, to start screws in small places. You can use the "Apex" type bits in a .25" ratcheting wrench, to get into tight places like an Allen wrench could. Secure the bit into the ratcheting wrench with a rubber band (with many turns around the bit). Hold the bit into the screw head with any flat tool, then, as you work. You can use a bit holder on a .25" common ratchet, for extra torque. I identified the JIS hex bits with a dot of paint on each one, so I could tell them apart from the regulars.
.
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Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-15-2020, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RERJr View Post
I spent the day changing headlight bulbs. Unbelievable that you have to pull plastic to get to the bulbs. Of course, I loosened the screw that holds the wire spring the holds the bulb and it fell into the nose.
Ray
It's a bit of a PITA, but you do not need to pull the tupperware. You also do not need to remove any screws. Those little metal clips just unsnap from the other side. They are hinged from the screw side.

By the way, I see that your FJR rolled off the assembly line a little after mine did. My SN is 236. Have you modified the battery cover so you do not need to remove the plastic around the instrument cluster?

Start reading around page 6. Instructions start on page 7. This change was rolled into later 2013 serial numbers and the 2014 onward.
File Type: pdf FJR1300 Battery Access Panel - sm.pdf

A Brit around 2014 put together a most excellent guide to removing Series III bodywork. I think it is better than what is in either the FSM or the Haynes book. And there are a couple of gotcha's I haven't seen documented anywhere else. Link is in my signature. And if you think you may do some electrical work, I redrew the electrical diagrams larger so they fit on 11"X17" pages and in color.

BTW, if someone would like for me to do the same with with the 2016 on, I will copy the electrical diagrams and return the FSM. I have seen a PDF for the 2017A/ES manual, and, alas, I cannot make the labels denoting wiring colors. If anyone is interested, PM me.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf FJR Electrical Diagram 2013A-2015A.pdf (4.70 MB, 12 views)
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Time spent looking at motorcycles, even Harleys, is never wasted.

2013 FJR1300A
1984 GPz750
Series III fairing removal:
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-17-2020, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Needed to use the proper size Phillips or JIS, but once rounded out.... I usually use a Phillips electronics screwdriver, replace screws early if damaged....
Way8lifter, you don't have your bike listed, forget what you have. IF a Gen2, alternate way is to unscrew adjuster cable fitting behind the black panel instead... tight quarters.
Before you put the big black rubber boot back on, smear a very thin film of silicone grease on the small ID and the big ID and they'll be much easier to get out and in next time. I do it all by feel now.
I replaced mine with the F2 LED's and havent had to change bulbs in like forever. When I had regular H4 halogens, it seemed like every 1 1/2 years I'd be in there. One would go and the other within minutes or hours later, so replace in sets.
Youíre scaring me. My original bulbs lasted 6.5 years and 37,000 miles. I hope donít have to do it again in a 18 months. Maybe a good time to trade for a 2022.

2013 FJR1300A #337
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-17-2020, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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JohnC, I did modify the battery cover. Thanks. I could have used that diagram when I installed the STS.

2013 FJR1300A #337
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-17-2020, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RERJr View Post
Youíre scaring me. My original bulbs lasted 6.5 years and 37,000 miles. I hope donít have to do it again in a 18 months. Maybe a good time to trade for a 2022.
IMHO it depends also on what bulbs you used. Some (Silverstars) don't hold up well.

Russ
2007A

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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-17-2020, 11:39 PM
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Silverstars tend to run a bit whiter and a bit brighter. Alas, that seems to come at the expense of service life.
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Time spent looking at motorcycles, even Harleys, is never wasted.

2013 FJR1300A
1984 GPz750
Series III fairing removal:
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-20-2020, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RERJr View Post
I spent the day changing headlight bulbs. Unbelievable that you have to pull plastic to get to the bulbs. Of course, I loosened the screw that holds the wire spring the holds the bulb and it fell into the nose. So, it got worse. I changed both bulbs because I didnít want to do this again. I am all for a naked FJR.

Ray
If you think an fjr is tough, try a Goldwing! Makes an fjr a piece of cake.
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