fork seal replacement / racetech gold valve - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-30-2020, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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fork seal replacement / racetech gold valve

Hi Guys
hope everybody doing good in those uncertain times

on my 2006 FJR with roughly 30k miles ,I'm about to change the fork seals.

forks have the racetech gold valve on them , been installed by a pro 2 years ago , he didn't change the seals

my questions are :

- what do I have to replace beside the seals , dust seals , seal retaining clips ?

- Is the gold valve setup different than the standard set up ?

- Extra gold valve parts that I have to be aware of ?

- Is the seal retaining clip called ring snap at Yamaha ? part number : 4SV-23156-00-00 ?

- Is the inner and outer bushing are the Yamaha metal slides 1 and 2 ?
part number :
slide 1 : 4SV-23125-10-00
slide 2 : 3P6-23125-00-00

what fork oil you guys recommend me ?
( I do a lot of gymkhana with the FJR and I ride stiff suspensions, have a rear Ohlins suspension that is set for 2up and pretty stiff when alone , that how I like it )

thank you guys for the future answers and hope to see somebody around one of those days
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-30-2020, 03:57 PM
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The RaceTech valves simply replaced the original rebound damping valves... cartridge will look the same externally, no worries, nothing to do but flush it clean.
There are 3 metal slides... lower, middle and upper, items 3,5,6 in the parts diagram. If the PO did not replace the seals, then he did not replace the bushings... because to get the seals out, you have to slide hammer the forks apart, which will destroy a couple of the bushings (lower and middle). You will find the upper bushing isn't worn much at all, but at 30k, you are due.
As for the upper snap ring, it's a smooth wire which is hard to get out... you likely don't need a new one, but if you do, might I recommend the new clip from a 2016 up, which has bent sections to make removal far easier.... 1MC-23156-10-00 or the equivalent from a Honda ST1300 or Kawasaki with 48mm forks.
You will need a tool to install the middle bushing, made with a section of 1-7/8" ID exhaust pipe (2" OD max). Optional is to leave the middle bushing out as has been discussed elsewhere, and in my opinion it is questionable, however since I have the tools I always put one in anyway. If you ride hard in the twisties, then maybe you want one in there.
Yammy OEM fork oil is alledgedly 5W but it's a thin 5W.... any brand is OK and I would recommend 7 or 7.5W (can be a blend of 5 + 10 if it's the same brand), or Yammy does sell a 7.5W.
One think you must do before you slide hammer the forks apart, is heat the upper part of the lower fork tube (where the upper bushing and seal reside), nice and hot (to the point of water beading off) with a propane torch. Very soon after slide hammer the forks apart while they are solidly clamped in a vice. Merely trying to minimize the risk of lower bushing getting inside the middle bushing and jamming... if jammed, have your big rubber hammer handy to pound the chrome tube back in... repeat as necessary, but it will go much easier with the tube hot.
Just did a set today, went real slick in my refined technique.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-30-2020, 04:15 PM
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perfect time to install a tapered bearing in the steering head
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-02-2020, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
The RaceTech valves simply replaced the original rebound damping valves... cartridge will look the same externally, no worries, nothing to do but flush it clean.
There are 3 metal slides... lower, middle and upper, items 3,5,6 in the parts diagram. If the PO did not replace the seals, then he did not replace the bushings... because to get the seals out, you have to slide hammer the forks apart, which will destroy a couple of the bushings (lower and middle). You will find the upper bushing isn't worn much at all, but at 30k, you are due.
As for the upper snap ring, it's a smooth wire which is hard to get out... you likely don't need a new one, but if you do, might I recommend the new clip from a 2016 up, which has bent sections to make removal far easier.... 1MC-23156-10-00 or the equivalent from a Honda ST1300 or Kawasaki with 48mm forks.
You will need a tool to install the middle bushing, made with a section of 1-7/8" ID exhaust pipe (2" OD max). Optional is to leave the middle bushing out as has been discussed elsewhere, and in my opinion it is questionable, however since I have the tools I always put one in anyway. If you ride hard in the twisties, then maybe you want one in there.
Yammy OEM fork oil is alledgedly 5W but it's a thin 5W.... any brand is OK and I would recommend 7 or 7.5W (can be a blend of 5 + 10 if it's the same brand), or Yammy does sell a 7.5W.
One think you must do before you slide hammer the forks apart, is heat the upper part of the lower fork tube (where the upper bushing and seal reside), nice and hot (to the point of water beading off) with a propane torch. Very soon after slide hammer the forks apart while they are solidly clamped in a vice. Merely trying to minimize the risk of lower bushing getting inside the middle bushing and jamming... if jammed, have your big rubber hammer handy to pound the chrome tube back in... repeat as necessary, but it will go much easier with the tube hot.
Just did a set today, went real slick in my refined technique.
Hi RaYzerman
thanks for the clear explanation i'll proceed how you said !!
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Hi la Famille , hope everybody doing good

Done the job few weeks ago , thanks to you guys ,only now got some time to tell you guys the result
Everything went smooth as silk thanks for all the tips , opted for a ohlins 5w oil , bushings were worn As you can see on the pics

Will do the central bearing soon , i need the special tool right ?

👍🏼🙏🏼🙏&#x1f 3fc;🙏🏼🙏🏼
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