Muffler Repacking - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Muffler Repacking

If I’m going to continue to use my beautiful Yoshimura R77 exhaust, it is about time that they be repacked. I’m deciding whether to fool with it.

For those with experience doing this, how big
of a pain is it?

Yoshimura uses closed-end rivets rather than common pop rivets. Can a manual rivet gun be used for these, or is a pneumatic gun required?

Thanks in advance for your insight.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 10:14 AM
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...and this is why I purchase Staintune cans....
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 11:50 AM
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Many cans use pop-rivet style, aluminum or stainless. Manual gun would be fine.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 11:51 AM
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Has it really increased sound much or is it more of a its about time thing? I restored a Honda CB1100F a couple of years ago, it had a Vance and Hines four into one that had old burned out looking packing in the muffler. I took it apart, cleaned it up and repacked the crap out of it hoping it would make it much quieter and more mellow sounding. Nope, couldn't tell any difference at all. Had a Delkevic slip-on mounted on my Guzzi Stelvio and with 47k miles, sounds exactly the same as my Griso with the same muffler with only 5k miles. I wouldn't waste my time unless it really bugs you.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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It’s a sound thing. Repack interval starts at 7,000 miles. And I did 30,000 last year. First, they gradually got too loud without the baffles, so I put the baffles in. That restored them to how they sounded new with the baffles out.

Over time, they’ve become loud enough with the baffles in that it becomes problematic on a long day. My wife can hear me coming when I get off the main road and turn onto our street. Sound superb. They just boom a bit.

Great cans. I get compliments on them regularly. They just require maintenance to do long miles.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 12:47 PM
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Yes you can repack the cans. It is not difficult.

The rivets are called "blind rivets". Rivets are sized by diameter and length. Get the proper ones as a too long of rivet will be difficult to uses a hand gun with and will not hold properly. You can drill the old rivet out through the center with the proper diameter drill bit. If the can shell is SS use SS rivets. If the can is aluminum you need to use aluminum rivets.

The packing can be sources from Mail order MC stores. To make it easier I lightly spritz the fiberglass with water to cut down on the fiberglass dust. But dont soak it. You dont want to breath that. Use a mask also. The old packing will fall apart as you remove it so use more water during removal.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobilemike View Post
Yes you can repack the cans. It is not difficult.

The rivets are called "blind rivets". Rivets are sized by diameter and length. Get the proper ones as a too long of rivet will be difficult to uses a hand gun with and will not hold properly. You can drill the old rivet out through the center with the proper diameter drill bit. If the can shell is SS use SS rivets. If the can is aluminum you need to use aluminum rivets.

The packing can be sources from Mail order MC stores. To make it easier I lightly spritz the fiberglass with water to cut down on the fiberglass dust. But dont soak it. You dont want to breath that. Use a mask also. The old packing will fall apart as you remove it so use more water during removal.
Much useful information, thanks Mike. I never would have thought about the metal type of rivet needing to be the same. Although it's simple enough, I'm simple minded, Thanks.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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These are actually carbon fiber. I have ordered the repack kits from yosh. They include the solid rivets and the blanket-style fill that are used in these cans when they are manufactured. I appreciate the information. It is helpful.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 05:05 PM
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Bill if the end caps are still stuck after you drill out rivets be careful ( tapping lightly) with rubber mallet on intake end, the baffle can collapse inside in some slip on's if one end cap moves and other does not.

I would call Yoush C.S. and ask is the baffle thin screen ( like a D&D can) or mild tube steel perforated etc. and is there a trick to remove it without any damage to the carbon fiber.

Louis
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hANNAbONE View Post
...and this is why I purchase Staintune cans....
I like the metal mesh never have to to repack, the BMW Boxer owners liked them back in 90's when I worked at D&D. But at a cost this vendor is expensive.



https://ridgemotorsports.stores.deal...x?zpid=5570679
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