Brake flush using MityVac : my first time - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-07-2020, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Brake flush using MityVac : my first time

Hello riders,
I ride a 2016 FJR 1300A. Canadian model. I changed my brake fluid at 31,000 kms, after going about 25,000 kms on it. The fluid looked like cider vinegar, or whiskey. I had trouble getting a vacuum seal around the attachments of the Mityvac, and so used pieces of wire to wire tie the hoses tight. I found the front fork calipers had smaller brake bleed fittings than the rear wheel. I could not get a good fit on the front , whereas the rear nipple was perfect for the clear plastic hose supplied with the kit.
To suction out the front calipers, I used a very small fitting from Mityvac, that fits inside the nipple opening, and held it snug with one hand, while creating the vacuum needed to withdraw the fluid, with the other. Is there a trick, or technique that I could use here to smooth out this little wrinkle.

Thanks for reading.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 04:31 AM
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I have to fight with it endlessly. Even using a zip tie doesnít help. There is one rubber tip included in the kit that makes it better. Both you still have to stand on one foot and hold two things simultaneously.

I ordered surgical tubing from speedbleeder that probably would make this 100x easier, but misplaced it some time between receipt and the next brake/clutch bleed.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 07:26 AM
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Myself, the next time I bleed my system (just did it ) I will replace the bleed screws with the “speed bleeders” that I have bought, much easier way to bleed the brakes. I just hope I can remember where I put them for “safe” keeping.

They have a one way check valve in them that lets you just pump the levers and yes for whatever reason yamaha used a larger bleeder in the back brake caliper.

As far as tubing goes, I use Tygon tubing which is similar to the surgical tube Bill mentioned above but it is available from most parts stores or industrial supply houses, also available from amazon in aboutany size you want. Much cheaper.

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Last edited by passx; 02-08-2020 at 07:31 AM.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 08:25 AM
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I've had mixed results with vacuum bleeding, no longer a fan. Silicone/Tygon tubing and SpeedBleeders work great. Flush and bleed both clutch and brakes annually will keep everything working well and least amount of fuss on an FJR.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 08:36 AM
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Be sure to put some wheel bearing grease on the bleeder screw threads to reduce any air being sucked by the threads when bleeding.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 09:02 AM
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I went to the home improvement store and got some plastic tuning that fit. I have enjoyed the ease of one-person-bleeding (without having to reach around to brake controls) for decades.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garauld View Post
Be sure to put some wheel bearing grease on the bleeder screw threads to reduce any air being sucked by the threads when bleeding.
I’ve been doing this to for years too! I use a thick bearing grease and smear it around the bleed screw and tube connection. Helps keep a good vacuum seal, but be careful. there isn’t a lot of fluid in the circuits. It will bleed fast!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 09:19 PM
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The rubber nipple on the $33 Harbor Freight air-compressor powered bleeder fits front, rear, and clutch nipples perfectly.

Uses a fair bit of air. Doubt a pancake compressor would be satisfactory. A 12v inflator not at all.

The huge advantage is it pulls a continuous vacuum not allowing any potential bubble to rise between pumps. Yet one can also pump the lever while the bleeder is sucking to speed up the job.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020, 10:05 AM
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I eventually got one of these after wearing out 3 mityvacs.


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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020, 06:23 PM
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Another vote for speedbleeders and their baggie/hose kit. The only problem I have is that my canyon cages make getting access to the clutch slave cylinder a little difficult.

I also second Ray's thoughts on annual hydraulic bleeding. Last year, I had to open the front brake circuit one year after I bled the hydraulics. The old brake fluid came out pretty clear but, after one year, the clutch fluid was pretty dirty.
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