Iridium Plugs after 36k - Page 3 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 12:53 PM
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NGK didn't say it but the reason they go to the effort to make a dry bonded-to-threads anti-seize is O2 sensors. And the desire to make a better spark plug that even idiots can install. Read the label on your anti-seize compound looking for mention of O2 sensor compatibility. About 1980 GM found the silicone sealer being used on the production line for rocker arm covers leeched ever so little into oil, some of the oil got into combustion chamber via PCV valve, and shortened the life of the then-new technology O2 sensor.

Today compatible silicone sealers are labeled O2 Sensor Safe. As are anti-seize compounds. O2 sensors come with a very special anti-seize compound already applied to the threads to protect against idiots using the wrong stuff.

I have never found a seized spark plug that I installed, nor one the factory installed. However I was shocked at how not-tight I found my factory installed FJR spark plugs. Shocked enough to find the torque wrench to install new.

As for anti-seize and grounding? The compound is full of powdered copper or aluminum. Can't help think anti-seize will improve the electrical connection.

About 40 years ago I was with a group touring a Parker-Hannifin hydraulic fittings factory where they silver plated threads on The Really Good Stuff for anti-seize properties where contamination was a concern. Think this is the same thing NGK is thinking only NGK has found something good enough that costs less than silver.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 02:13 PM
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NGK’s position on anti-seize

NGK spark plugs are manufactured with a trivalent plating. The spark plugs display a silver or chrome finish on the threads. The trivalent plating reduces corrosion resistance from moisture and chemicals. The trivalent coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs should be installed DRY, WITHOUT anti-seize.


NGK reports that tech support personnel have received a number of calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize is a lubricant and affects torque values by up to 20 percent. If you use anti-seize against NGK recommendations, you MUST decrease the set torque on your torque wrench by that amount or risk breaking the spark plug, distorting the shell, or damaging cylinder head spark plug threads.

Autolite’s position on anti-seize

Autolite does NOT recommend the use any type of anti seize lubricant when installing new Autolite spark plugs. Since anti-seize compounds contain metallic, electrically conductive ingredients, the ingredients can come in contact with the electrodes on the spark plugs, leading to misfires. Anti seize lubricants also introduce a torque multiplying effect, leading to cylinder head spark plug thread distortion, galling and cylinder head damage.

Autolite applies a nickel plating to the threads of new spark plugs that resists corrosion and seizing.

AC/Delco’s position on anti-seize

AC spark plugs should be installed dry. Do NOT use any type of anti-seize lubricant on spark plug threads. Anti-seize lubricants decrease the amount of friction between the threads, resulting in over tightening. That can cause the spark plug to move too far into the combustion chamber (in crush washer applications). Over-tightening can also distort the spark plug shell, causing a leak which would allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.

Champion spark plug position on anti-seize

Champion spark plugs are zinc plated to reduce the chance of seizure in aluminum cylinder heads. Champion then applies Tin Tac” and ULTRASEAL’M coatings over the plating to further reduce corrosion and seizure. Anti-seize should NOT be applied to new Champion spark plugs.
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-06-2020, 05:09 PM
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"The trivalent plating reduces corrosion resistance from moisture and chemicals."

Why would you want that?

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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-06-2020, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by R!der View Post
"The trivalent plating reduces corrosion resistance from moisture and chemicals."

Why would you want that?
Corrosion is most of what makes threats seize. But millennials seem to have problems with double-negatives.

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-06-2020, 09:43 PM
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I would not put anti-seize on regular plugs because I'd think most would check/replace somewhere 20-30k, and that will be fine... we've been doing it for years, not too many issues with that. If you don't believe in it, then don't do it.

The anti-seize recommendation is for those of you with Iridiums or neglect your regular plugs until much higher mileage as I mentioned in post 6.

As for the plug manufacturer's recommendations on anti-seize... on crush washer applications, throw away your torque wrench and tighten 1/4 turn, how is that overtorquing? Yamaha says torque to 9.4 ft. lbs... how many have a torque wrench that accurate at that low a torque?

It's also common sense and blatantly obvious to me you shouldn't get anti-seize on the electrodes.
Another reason for putting it on the first 3 threads... to prevent carbon and those maybe corrosive compounds from sticking when they blow up the first three threads.... look at the OP's pics.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
I would not put anti-seize on regular plugs because I'd think most would check/replace somewhere 20-30k, and that will be fine... we've been doing it for years, not too many issues with that. If you don't believe in it, then don't do it.

The anti-seize recommendation is for those of you with Iridiums or neglect your regular plugs until much higher mileage as I mentioned in post 6.

As for the plug manufacturer's recommendations on anti-seize... on crush washer applications, throw away your torque wrench and tighten 1/4 turn, how is that overtorquing? Yamaha says torque to 9.4 ft. lbs... how many have a torque wrench that accurate at that low a torque?

It's also common sense and blatantly obvious to me you shouldn't get anti-seize on the electrodes.
Another reason for putting it on the first 3 threads... to prevent carbon and those maybe corrosive compounds from sticking when they blow up the first three threads.... look at the OP's pics.
You underestimate the ineptitude of the common home garage maintenance person.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 09:37 AM
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You underestimate the ineptitude of the common home garage maintenance person.
Not really, LOL, I know only too well... Don't be that guy!! and then there's those videos...


Edit add - Something to think about, when does a crush washer just become a flat washer? We've "discussed" the drain plug thing, e.g., hopefully we don't blindly follow the Yammy torque recommendation of 31 ft. lbs. It will be flat and hopefully you didn't strip your oil pan threads... The crush washer starts to crush around 17, give it say 20 and it should be good, but to be honest, I never tested how much the crush washer crushed... I just use flat Honda aluminum ones with that same 20-ish. The spark plug crush washer, in the interest of science next time I install plugs, I'll see what torque it took to get that 1/4 turn and how much it crushed. I have a plug change coming up soon.

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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Not really, LOL, I know only too well... Don't be that guy!! and then there's those videos...


Edit add - Something to think about, when does a crush washer just become a flat washer? We've "discussed" the drain plug thing, e.g., hopefully we don't blindly follow the Yammy torque recommendation of 31 ft. lbs. It will be flat and hopefully you didn't strip your oil pan threads... The crush washer starts to crush around 17, give it say 20 and it should be good, but to be honest, I never tested how much the crush washer crushed... I just use flat Honda aluminum ones with that same 20-ish. The spark plug crush washer, in the interest of science next time I install plugs, I'll see what torque it took to get that 1/4 turn and how much it crushed. I have a plug change coming up soon.
Sealing washers on spark plugs is the main reason pulling plugs for inspection and reinstalling the used plug is a farce. The sealing crush washer is a one time use engineered item. Once crushed its sealing properties are compromises. A spark plug leaking compression is a very big hazzard for engine life.

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