DIY Tire Changes - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 134 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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DIY Tire Changes

Guys- I’m dipping my toe in the water and plan to start doing my own tire changes. I’m interested in what tools you’re using (ordering info if you’ve got it) to remove and reinstall your wheels, and the order in which you do it. My closest advisors tell me it’s simple, but for someone who hasn’t done it before, the ramifications of doing it incorrectly can be daunting. I’m far more concerned with wheel removal and replacement than about coaxing the tires on and off.
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Last edited by Bill Lumberg; 12-22-2019 at 08:37 AM.
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post #2 of 134 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 08:06 AM
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Modestly pricey, but soon pays for itself is one of the No-Mar setups. They also have excellent how-to videos on their site. You'll never be able to change a tire as easy as they make it look, but with time, effort, and practice you'll get the hang of it.
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post #3 of 134 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 09:14 AM
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To get wheels off bike and on, I use a 12v winch (cheap harbor freight) attach to strong beam in my carport. Can pick up front or rear of bike with ease. Put jack stands under engine guards just in case winch fails. Small block of wood between tire an floor to reduce the space between the two when pulling wheel off and back on.
Also you will need a torque wrench to tighten the axle and bolts to correct torque.

Current Bike> '14 FJR ES, '17 Versys-X 300 ABS
Past Bikes > '09 Ninja 250r, '00 XT225 (blew piston), '03 Goldwing, '07 DR650, '07 XT225, '12 NC700x
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post #4 of 134 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 09:42 AM
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Bill, both front and rear can be safely removed and replaced on a garage floor. Bike on center stand then use a scissors jack under the exhaust to support when the front is being worked on, and then under the shock linkage when working on the rear. Put a block of wood between the jack and bike to protect things.

These posts layout the details of the removal and install process. They use an older model but i suspect not much has changed. A Haynes manual will also be a big help. A common error is not getting the rear end spacer and caliper reassembled in the proper order. Take pictures before you start.

The comment on the NoMar is correct; makes things much easier. I have one that is nine years old and it has paid for itself many times over. You can go in on a purchase with some friends and get one with their mount that fits in the receiver of a pick up. Not something that is needed very often so sharing will be easy.

Just remember that changing tires is much like sex; good lubrication and heat make the process much easier.

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Last edited by Pterodactyl; 12-22-2019 at 09:45 AM.
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post #5 of 134 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 10:10 AM
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I built a pipe stand and use it for everything from tires and swingarm rebuild to lawn mower repairs. The day I went to buy the pipes the larger pipes were actually cheaper than the ones that Brian uses in the video so I made mine a little bit beefier, all in was around $90. I really like this stand because when I'm done it folds flat up against the wall. I use the zip tie method for putting tires on (harbor freight 2-ft zip ties) and I have a NoMar tire balancer.
Here's a video on building a pipe stand
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post #6 of 134 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 10:41 AM
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Years ago I bought the Harbor Freight tire changer with the motorcycle adapter. I have it where I can mount it to the garage floor when needed, then moved out of the way when not.

I bet I changed 100+ tires on that thing, you find a lot of motorcycle friends when you get a tire changer LOL

I have a Marc Parnes wheel balancer also.
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post #7 of 134 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 11:20 AM
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There are lots of ways to get wheels off the ground for removal. Just like swing-arm maintenance, there will be lots of answers on how to do this. Do it in the way you feel is most secure.

Some tips, little things people forget, until they are in the middle of it:

1. In addition to tire removal/install tools, you need a way to balance wheels. A static balancer is fairly inexpensive and very accurate if used properly. (Race teams always static balance tires). Make sure you have wheel weights on hand.

2. New tires have colored dots on them that usually indicates the lightest point of the tire. Lots of people line this up with the tire stem, as this is usually the heavy point of wheel. Especially if you have added angle or "T" valves.

I always static spin the rim (after removing weights and replacing tire valve) to find the heavy point, then mount tire with dot at that point.

3. Brake calipers must be removed. You need to spread the pads to make this easier. There are special tools made for this, or a wide blade screwdriver carefully placed will also work.

4. Zip tie or tape a block of wood between the brake lever and handlebar, and zip tie the rear brake lever "up". This helps keep you from doing something silly, like hitting the lever when the caliper is off and popping out the caliper pistons. (Ask me how I know)

5. The front brake calipers have very little clearance when removing. Place a soft cloth on top when pulling off to keep from scratching the wheel.

6. Tie up the brake calipers, do not let them hang from the hoses.

7. Do this work where the bike can be left for a period of time. While you have the wheels off, this is a good time to do things like inspect rotor thickness, brake pads, caliper piston seals (seepage), wheel bearings, steering head bearings, swing-arm bearings.

If you find additional things that need maintenance/replacement, you may need to order parts, and if it cannot be left where you have dis-assembled it, you have to re-assemble and move the bike, then start again later.

8. Slow and steady wins the race, in this case, mounts the wheels without scratches and are well balanced. No mater the means you use, take your time.
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post #8 of 134 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 11:30 AM
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Nothing special about removing or installing wheels. To give a bit more room I ride the back tire up onto 2 stacked 2x4's with one 2x4 under the side stand. Then after dismounting I place the center stand down onto a piece of 3/4" pine shelving. Wheels come out and go in significantly easier this way particularly if you run a car tire rear like I do.

I do not fight by lifting the rear wheel off the gears nor do I attempt to raise to wheel onto the gears. A simple $25 floor jack with a wood slat under the exhaust pipes raises the front (to get the front on & off) but also lowers the rear to get the rear wheel off and on: lower rear, slide wheel off gears, raise rear, roll wheel out.

This site -> is what I followed for wheels. Info at this site -> for drive shaft splines and universal joint. NOTE THE 2 DIFFERENT PROCEDURES. After the initial year I check/redo mine every few yrs.


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post #9 of 134 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 11:45 AM
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All of the advise given will help you a lot. Ive changed my own tires for decades just using soapy water, tire irons, and rim protectors. Of course you can always buy a machine but its really just getting comfortable with doing it that will make it a non issue and pretty **** easy. Recently replaced both tires on my Guzzi Stelvio mounted and balanced, start to finish in 1hr 15 min including drinking two beers.
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post #10 of 134 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 11:47 AM
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Wow, **** dam gets bleeped
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