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DIY Tire Changes

19K views 133 replies 31 participants last post by  Bill Lumberg 
#1 · (Edited)
Guys- I’m dipping my toe in the water and plan to start doing my own tire changes. I’m interested in what tools you’re using (ordering info if you’ve got it) to remove and reinstall your wheels, and the order in which you do it. My closest advisors tell me it’s simple, but for someone who hasn’t done it before, the ramifications of doing it incorrectly can be daunting. I’m far more concerned with wheel removal and replacement than about coaxing the tires on and off.
 
#94 ·
Wow ! Had no idea,,,, didn’t think a 19 incher was all that common, but a short, stiff sidewall doesn’t surprise me to give better handling as well as handle the weight. What does that Tesla weigh ?
 
#95 ·
Wow ! Had no idea,,,, didn't think a 19 incher was all that common, but a short, stiff sidewall doesn't surprise me to give better handling as well as handle the weight. What does that Tesla weigh ?
Just under 5.000 pounds.

My Subaru has 18" tires. As does the F-150. But those are not ridiculous 45 series. 60 on Subaru, 65 on F-150.

The optional tires on Tesla was 35 series 21".

The Model X base tire is 20".
 
#97 ·
I’ve never been to a shop that priced it out separately unless someone asked. But I’ve never asked if I could bring a wheel in either. At the shops I’ve used, tire changes are tire changes and most folks bring their bike in whole, and leave in the same manner, albeit with new rubber. I think it’s semantics.

All that said, for $50 a wheel, I’d expect them to do the R&R.

I’ll have about $160 in tools, and I can always fall back to having it done, or forward to a NoMar. I enjoy oil changes, being able to do it without leaving the house or scheduling anything. I think this will be similar for me.
 
#98 ·
I've never been to a shop that priced it out separately unless someone asked. But I've never asked if I could bring a wheel in either. At the shops I've used, tire changes are tire changes and most folks bring their bike in whole, and leave in the same manner, albeit with new rubber. I think it's semantics.

All that said, for $50 a wheel, I'd expect them to do the R&R.

I'll have about $160 in tools, and I can always fall back to having it done, or forward to a NoMar. I enjoy oil changes, being able to do it without leaving the house or scheduling anything. I think this will be similar for me.
If you get a NoMar you will have many new friends.......
 
#99 ·
Hi Bill:

Just saw this thread today so I'm a little late to the party. My 2 cents (that's $100 Canadian):

I have been doing my own tire changes by hand (no No-Mar, etc) for years without issue. It's a 700+ km (435 mile) round trip for me to get to a shop so I had to learn how to do it on my own. Plus, the last time I paid a shop to change my tires (after a hernia operation that was not related to tire changing!) they charged me $200 to change 2 tires on loose wheels with tires I supplied.

Some tires are harder to change than others. The Heidenau K60s or Mitas E07s that I use on my Super Tenere can be challenging but in comparison sport and sport-touring tires are relatively easy. I have never changed a rear tire on a Goldwing, which I am told are near impossible to do without a machine.

To lift the bike I use the centre stand however I put a piece of 2x10 under it to give me a bit more room. If you have concerns that the bike is sitting too high at the rear, put a piece of 2x4, 2x6, etc under the front tire. To lift the front I use a floor jack with a block of wood under the header. I only ever remove one wheel at a time.

To break the beads I have a home-made bead breaker (see photo). I use 4, curved 16" tire irons (the fourth makes a huge difference) and rim protectors to lever the tire off and on the rim. Don't buy the blue rim savers, which I think are intended for dirt bikes, as they're too soft. I got some white nylon ones through my local dealer and have also used "BikeMaster Rim Protectors", part #151591. I also use a No-Mar "Yellow Thing" (a very handy device) to hold the bead in the drop zone as I lever the new tire on the rim.

I statically balance the wheels with a home-made balancer that uses a rod similar to the one from Marc Parnes. Experience, trial, and error are used to guestimate how much weight is needed to balance the wheel, which I temporarily mount with masking tape, and I'm not too picky when it comes to balancing a rear wheel. I carefully clean the area where I determine the stick on weights should be placed with rubbing alcohol and have never had one come off unintentionally. Also of note, I check the balance of my wheels without the tires installed, but with the valve core and cap installed, to determine the heavy spot of the wheel, and mark the spot on the inside of the rim with a permanent marker and transfer that spot to the outside of the rim with a small piece of tape before installing the new tire. One final thing to be aware of is that not all tire manufactures mark the heavy spot of their tires.

To mount the new tire use lots of lube. I used soap and water until I was introduced to Ruglyde (Napa). This stuff is made for mounting and dismounting tires and cleaning rubber, and it's slipperier than snot on ice. To set the bead I have a trigger type tire chuck that I removed the core from, which allows me to inflate the tire without a core in the valve stem. The result is that the air rushes in much quicker and makes the bead setting easy, stupidly easy if I used Ruglyde to pre-lube the bead seating area. Nothing like those two satisfying pops to let you know you've done a proper job.

Cheers,
Haynes
 

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#101 ·
Some tires are harder to change than others. The Heidenau K60s or Mitas E07s that I use on my Super Tenere can be challenging but in comparison sport and sport-touring tires are relatively easy. I have never changed a rear tire on a Goldwing, which I am told are near impossible to do without a machine.
A Bridgestone T30 Evo GT or T31 GT on FJR is close to the difficulty of a GL1800 tire. While a PR4GT is a delight to mount.
 
#100 ·
Correction:

Re-read my post - the mark on the sidewall of the tire, if there is one, indicates the light spot not the heavy spot as I originally stated above.

I cannot correct the orientation of the photo I posted. (Turn your computer screen 90 degrees, clockwise!)

Haynes
 
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#104 ·
By the way, I just bought this kit and it worked great.
Caution: there are on tone of these on eBay.
Make sure all three spoons are the 14".5 inch spoons, and the rim protectors,
valve stem tool, and valve cores are included.
Were the rim protectors hard plastic or soft rubbery plastic?

The MotionPro rim protectors are very soft which my tools pinched immediately. Tusk rim protectors are hard and I've not damaged them.
 
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#103 ·
By the way, I just bought this kit and it worked great.
Caution: there are on ton of these on eBay, so please read the ad copy carefully
as not all kits are equipped the same.
Make sure all three spoons are the 14".5 inch spoons, and the rim protectors,
valve stem tool, and valve cores are included.
The whole kit cost $20 and I was pleased.
The spoons are smooth and sturdy and work well.
I used a 2x4 and a small block of wood to break the beads levering under a cargo trailer frame.
The wheels and new tires were brought in the house the night before to let everything warm up.
I carried the warmed up tires and wheels back out to break the beads.
I carried them back in and I set the nozzle of a hair blow dryer in the new tires while I spooned the
old tires off.
In the 10 minutes it took, the news tires were blazing hot.
I used a little water, dish soap and a paint brush to lubricate coming off as well as for mounting.
I also used a quick swipe of it just before inflation and setting the beads.
It dries fast on a warm tire.
I've mounted tires with friends before, always outside in the cold.
The extra steps I just took bring everything inside and using the hair dryer
MADE ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD! :)
Those tires practically came all the way off with just hands, feet and knees.
The spoons were only used to get things started and to finish things up.
I'm super pleased, as this was my first solo attempt.
AND it only cost me $20 in tools.
Yahoo!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tire-Spoon...717066?hash=item4da819600a:g:-1QAAOSwyJVdYn1r
 
#106 ·
GuitarDave:

Re "Light Spot Marks" - Further to my earlier post, not all tires come with this spot marked. In fact, years ago I contacted Michelin and they told me that they did not mark the light spot as they found that most wheels were not perfectly balanced. This is why I check the balance of my wheel without the tire mounted but with the valve core and cap installed and mark the true heavy spot of the wheel, not assuming that the heaviest spot is where the valve stem is.

Many years ago a motorcycle mechanic (and heavy duty mile-eater) told me he never balanced rear wheels as there was too much gear attached to the wheel (sprocket/chain or driveshaft) to make much of a difference. He always balanced the front.

N4HHE: See my post re rim protectors for another choice in rim protectors. I have never pinched one of the BikeMaster rim protectors (they are quite hard). After many uses I have occasionally had one crack. The blue rim protectors were much too soft and pinched with the first attempt to lever the tire off the rim.

Haynes
 
#108 ·
Many years ago a motorcycle mechanic (and heavy duty mile-eater) told me he never balanced rear wheels as there was too much gear attached to the wheel (sprocket/chain or driveshaft) to make much of a difference. He always balanced the front.

Haynes
Interesting I also had a motorcycle mechanic tell me that once too. still, I have mine balanced, but always wondered if it really made a difference. Certainly can't hurt to have the rears balanced.
 
#107 ·
I haven’t seen a Michelin motorcycle tire with balance mark. Didn’t think to look at my new car tires some years ago. New F-150 with Goodyear tires have big obvious red dots no where near the valve stems. Why bother if the production line installer isn’t paying attention? They are big heavy 18” wheels and have as much balance weights as any wheel I have seen.

Michelin motorcycle tires have a white tag on bead. My mild anal compunction makes me place this by the valve stem. I tell myself that I do this in case the tire has to be removed to repair, that I can put it back the way it was.
 
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#110 ·
I should give guys my front wheels once I remove the 30-50 grams of weights it takes just to balance the wheel..... put some tires on and ride. You'd have fun I'm sure.
If I don't balance the rear, I do feel the vibes.... crazy not to IMHO.
 
#111 ·
A buddy of mine told me that as long as he raced motorcycles, they always balanced using the axle and two jack stands when replacing tires at the tracks. He said they’d spin the wheel, walk away. Come back and mark the high spot, spin it and walk away again. When they came back, applied weights and reinstalled. Said they never had a balance problem. That always did the job.
 
#115 ·
A buddy of mine told me that as long as he raced motorcycles, they always balanced using the axle and two jack stands when replacing tires at the tracks. He said they'd spin the wheel, walk away. Come back and mark the high spot, spin it and walk away again. When they came back, applied weights and reinstalled. Said they never had a balance problem. That always did the job.
Wheel bearings do not always turn as freely as bearings on my balancer which I don't like because some wheel bearings turn freer. Bearings on Marc Parnes balancer are fantastic.
 
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#113 ·
To be clear, I always balance both wheels: Statically balanced on a stand using something similar to the Parnes rod, which I believe is designed to be used on axle stands or something similar. I check the balance of the wheel without the tire installed and find the heavy spot of the wheel (with valve core and cap installed) and line the balancing dot, if there is one, up with that spot.

RaYzerman: If your tires require more than 28-35 grams to balance, try breaking the bead and rotating the tire 90 degrees and re-balancing the tire. May make a difference. Also, find the heavy spot of the wheel. I have found that it is almost never where the valve stem is.

Haynes
 
#114 ·
I seem to have been blessed with 3 FJR wheels that were terribly off, so I balanced the bare wheels first, re-used the clip-on weights that came with them and leave those on permanently. Tires normally don't take more than 10-20 grams, some nothing, and agree if it's such that all the weights end up on one side of the wheel, I'll rotate the tire.
 
#120 ·
Or, get it to the point where every time you test it, it stops randomly in another spot.
 
#122 ·
I can get it there, sort of. Ideally, I'd like it to just stop, but it'll stop, then rotate back a little. Like I said, I can worry myself to distraction ;)

What I do is add some weight to the top, the light spot, then rotate it 90 degrees and let go. If the weight goes up, I add a bit more; if it goes down, I remove a bit. That's what I meant. I'll get to the point that it goes down, and I remove 1/4 ounce, then it goes up, and I add the 1/4 back, and it goes down. I've experimented with 1/8 ounce, and can get to the same point. Have I mentioned that I can worry myself to distraction?
 
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#121 ·
As time goes by my standard for good enough gets broader; especially on rear tires.

I’ve had a tire that I thought was perfectly balanced then stop 180 degrees off and after another spin end up 90 degrees off of that. Impossible..... but there ya go. Never had a tire I balanced feel unbalanced.
 
#123 ·
I'd rather let it do at least one or a couple of 360 degree spins and stop where it wants, but I'll try your method too... I usually have something else to do so I just walk away and let it do its thing.
 
#124 ·
I did a track day at Barber in 2003, and the AMA guys were there prepping for a race the next weekend. I was watching them balance tires that way and went "Huh." I've been doing it that way since. I still check for randomness, but it always seems to work out.
 
#128 ·
There were a group of us who went in on the full Marc Parnes balancer that includes the stand. i inherited it as our group moved or quit riding. It is a nice set up along with my Harbor Freight tire changer

I too balance front and back, doesn't take longs and gives me piece of mind.
 
#131 ·
I have motionpro weights in both 1/4 and 1/8 oz. I really can drive myself to distraction and still have to force myself that good enough is good enough.
 
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