07 suspension replaced and results - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-11-2019, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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07 suspension replaced and results

Before the wife and I took a three day trip to the Smokies, I had the suspension redone.

I had 55k miles and the rear shock was toast. Not much damping and signs of leaking. The roller bearings at the bottom had some flat-spotting. I greased everything and replaced it with a 2016 rear shock.

In the front I replaced the bushings, seals, and fluid. The fluid needed changing, but everything else was fine, but I changed it anyway. I went with Honda SS8 10w fork oil which is actually around 7.4w.

We started with the factory settings and dialed everything in for our weight here at home before we headed out.

Anyway, WOW! What a difference! We felt like we bought a new bike!

DAN THE PARTS MAN
2007 FJR1300AE
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-11-2019, 09:35 PM
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We did the same to my front end with my 2008 AE with 50,000 miles, for the rear a member here gave me 2006 Gen II rear shock with 11K on it. Huge difference from worn out 50K suspension. A month later mounted new Pirelli Angle GT A Spec tires and that new/better felling again. :-)

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-11-2019, 09:40 PM
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Dan, I assume you did not upgrade the fork springs.... can you tell me where you ended up adjusting the fork preload to, the damping settings and the rebound damping on the rear shock?
Were you riding two-up or take separate bikes?
Thanks...
PS - there was the FJR event (SFO) in Jameson a couple of weeks ago and I attended...

Ray
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-12-2019, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Dan, I assume you did not upgrade the fork springs.... can you tell me where you ended up adjusting the fork preload to, the damping settings and the rebound damping on the rear shock?
Were you riding two-up or take separate bikes?
Thanks...
PS - there was the FJR event (SFO) in Jameson a couple of weeks ago and I attended...
Stock springs. we ride 2-up. I have the fork preload on the first line from the top. 6 clicks from bottom on rebound, 11 on compression. The rear shock rebound is set to 6 clicks out.

DAN THE PARTS MAN
2007 FJR1300AE
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-12-2019, 07:45 PM
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Sounds pretty reasonable.... about the stock fork springs, they are undersprung (0.85 rate) so dialing in the preload nearly all the way or all the way in is good. You'd benefit from some nice new straight rate springs... Traxxion has a nice plug and play kit for Gen2 but be sure to ask them to include the plastic spring guides if you want to go that route. They typically recommend their 1.1 spring rate and you won't need much preload with those.

Ray
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-13-2019, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by relhok View Post
Stock springs. we ride 2-up. I have the fork preload on the first line from the top. 6 clicks from bottom on rebound, 11 on compression. The rear shock rebound is set to 6 clicks out.
You need 10. rate springs all the preload does is alter when the springs start to work so if you put the preload on max it doesn't change the spring rate. All you will notice is there has to be more force before the spring moves the problem with this is you can lose the feel from the front. You can even get the front wash out on slow speed maneuvers because the fork springs are not working how they should.

The way is a respring and revalve as the rebound damping is poor so adding 10. springs will make the poor rebound more obvious.

Compression damping is good and the forks contain a hydraulic bump stop - so thats not cheap rubbish.

If on a budget just fit the springs but if you have the cash get them revalved too. The difference is shocking (pun intended)

You may also find the rear shock is undersprund for two up work a replacement rear shock of reasonable quality is the way again custom made.

This is what ive done to mine and a few others (friends) now and the difference is night and day it really turns the FJR into a two up sports tourer.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-13-2019, 08:23 AM
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Actually the FJR fork valving is quite good, just use a good 5W fork oil (the OEM is more like 3W), or 7.5W. Those who raved about new fork rebuilds including aftermarket valving... the big benefit was getting proper straight rate springs... do the springs first, I think you'll find no valving money needs to be spent.

Ray
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-13-2019, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Actually the FJR fork valving is quite good, just use a good 5W fork oil (the OEM is more like 3W), or 7.5W. Those who raved about new fork rebuilds including aftermarket valving... the big benefit was getting proper straight rate springs... do the springs first, I think you'll find no valving money needs to be spent.
Have you ever tried any bike not just an FJR with spring and then springs and a revalve? Admittedly it does depend on the bike some are in dire need of a revalve and some like the FJR need some revalving, like i said rebound shim stacks.

I hear people banging on about Hyperpro until they have decent linier springs fitted and i hear people banging on about how good linnier springs are until they have the damping revalved to suit the springs.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-13-2019, 07:25 PM
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Thanks for this post. I have an '07 that needs a rear shock. Just don't have the money for a new one right now so it's on the wish list.

-Steve in Phx
IBA# 61624
2007 FJR1300AE
2000 Honda XR650L (bought new)

...and a bunch of other dirt bikes
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-13-2019, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polar View Post
Have you ever tried any bike not just an FJR with spring and then springs and a revalve? Admittedly it does depend on the bike some are in dire need of a revalve and some like the FJR need some revalving, like i said rebound shim stacks.

I hear people banging on about Hyperpro until they have decent linier springs fitted and i hear people banging on about how good linnier springs are until they have the damping revalved to suit the springs.

In general, bikes with older damping rod (a tube with holes in it) need revalving or cartridge emulators (V-Stroms, Honda ST's and Goldwings, e.g.). From my experience, FJR's do not need valving, but they do need linear springs of the proper spring rate to carry the weight... Hyperpro is progressive, they wouldn't disclose their spring rates to me. I prefer linear anyway, not a fan of the dive that occurs when the lighter part of the progressive compresses.
The biggest bang for the buck is springs, try that first and you'll discover your new bike..... if you want to spend money on valving, you're best trying the springs first and see if you really "need" valving.
I put RaceTech valving in my FJR '07... it wasn't worth the $350 as I couldn't really say it improved anything much. The FJR valving has plenty of adjustment, it's not like you are at the limits. But I would recommend a good 5W oil or even 7.5W.

Ray
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