Gen 3 grip warmer issues - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Question Gen 3 grip warmer issues

2014 A model with no heat on either grip. Checked the various fuses suggested in the FSM. The right side shows no resistance or continuity while the left side shows 1.6 ohms which is out of spec (1.21-1.48 ohms). I've concluded that the right grip has failed which causes the left to not heat. If I just replace the right side the left should work although with a higher resistance, it may not heat to full temperature, correct?


Any other areas to check before I purchase these expensive units?

2014 Yamaha FJR1300A
1991 Honda Nighthawk 750
2012 Kawasaki Ninja 650
2016 Yamaha FZ-07
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 10:59 PM
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Have you traced the heater wires from the grips to the connectors under the windshield cover? There may be an obvious break in the one with no continuity that you can repair. Where are you placing your probes to measure?

Candy Red
2014 FJR1300A
Tires: Metzeler Roadtec Z6

Previous bikes:
2014 Honda Goldwing Valkyrie
2013 Honda CB1100
1999 Honda Nighthawk 750
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Under the front cover I found the gray and black connectors - that is where I am checking continuity and resistance. Nothing obvious on the wiring between the grip ti that point but I have not looked over every inch. I figured it has failed at the grip itself since it "moves" with on/off of the throttle.

2014 Yamaha FJR1300A
1991 Honda Nighthawk 750
2012 Kawasaki Ninja 650
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 11:40 PM
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Could be. As to your question, since they're hooked in series wouldn't the higher resistance in one grip be carried across to both, making both less effective?

Candy Red
2014 FJR1300A
Tires: Metzeler Roadtec Z6

Previous bikes:
2014 Honda Goldwing Valkyrie
2013 Honda CB1100
1999 Honda Nighthawk 750
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 06:32 AM
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Crazy. Hope this works out.

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2018 FJR1300ES Stealth Model

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtlanejr View Post
2014 A model with no heat on either grip. Checked the various fuses suggested in the FSM. The right side shows no resistance or continuity while the left side shows 1.6 ohms which is out of spec (1.21-1.48 ohms). I've concluded that the right grip has failed which causes the left to not heat. If I just replace the right side the left should work although with a higher resistance, it may not heat to full temperature, correct?


Any other areas to check before I purchase these expensive units?
An open circuit heater read infinite resistance, and a shorted heater read near zero resistance.
Your reading is OK. If you doubt, apply 12V to it and you will feel the heat.

Edit: Forget that post, I misreaded the first post. I first thought he said that he worry about the 1.6 ohm in the right side....

Last edited by Back in Black; 11-02-2019 at 01:45 PM.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 07:53 AM
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The grip must have the required resistance, and since they are wired in series, if one is open, neither will work. The most likely place for an open circuit is at or near the grip, so remove the two screws at the throttle cable assembly to separate the two cap halves and probe the wires there.
If not repairable, rather than buy the expensive OEM grips, perhaps buy an aftermarket set of the right length (and similar resistance). Most likely they will work with the OEM controller.

The other option is to get heating elements you wrap on the handlebar and install a non-heated grip over it.

Ray
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 09:00 AM
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Yeah, you said something in your post about "no resistance or continuity" which doesn't make sense but I assumed you meant "no successful reading of the resistance".

I would unplug the right side from the front connector since you have opened access to it and pull it back through the housing and free it up all the way to the grip (you'll have to do this anyway to replace it) and inspect closely for a break of some kind. The outer insulator is more like soft rubber tubing and is easy to cut through. You'll have to break open some wire routing clips to get it out so either order some more of those along with the new warmer or just use zip ties to replace them with like I did.

It seems odd to me that the heater wire would break just because the throttle is being turned. Yamaha designed for that and I've not heard of anyone else having that problem.

Candy Red
2014 FJR1300A
Tires: Metzeler Roadtec Z6

Previous bikes:
2014 Honda Goldwing Valkyrie
2013 Honda CB1100
1999 Honda Nighthawk 750

Last edited by postoak; 11-02-2019 at 09:38 AM.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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I just have a cheap voltage/ohm meter. On the right side I can check select for continuity and select ohms and get no reading. On the left side it shows continuity and 1.6 ohms which on the cheap meter may well be with in its margin of error.


I did pull the throttle cover and the design is for a small amount of wiring to flex with the throttle tube/heating element. I figure that is where the failure is at but will probably pull it fully to see if I see any obvious breaks.


Thanks for the input.

2014 Yamaha FJR1300A
1991 Honda Nighthawk 750
2012 Kawasaki Ninja 650
2016 Yamaha FZ-07
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 10:51 AM
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Yeah, getting that wiring in there and flexed properly is the hardest part of the whole deal. At least it was for me.

Candy Red
2014 FJR1300A
Tires: Metzeler Roadtec Z6

Previous bikes:
2014 Honda Goldwing Valkyrie
2013 Honda CB1100
1999 Honda Nighthawk 750
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