I know I’m starting another oil filter debate but has anyone used WIX filters on their FJR? I have always used OEM or HiFlo but was looking at other options. Why I’m doing it I’m not sure as I’ve never had a problem with either brand. Looked at Mahle because they get great reviews and somehow that got me looking at WIX. WIX has a great reputation so thinking I might give them a try.

Never tried Wix. I usually just grab a mobil 1, either the m110 or the m108. Both fit fine, have a peel-off label and are black.

How does one tell if an oil filter is doing better or worse job than another?

Here’s a start: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

Only for about 175k on various bikes...

About 15-20yrs ago there was an engineer that was cutting oil Filters apart and reporting on the construction in them like the actual filter area and medium used. This is where I got the bad feelings for the fram filters that i’ve Quoted a few times here. I was working for allied-signal which was Bendix brakes and later Bosch. The Philosophy of Allied-Signal at that time was make it as cheap as possible but make the packaging pretty. Allied-Signal owned Fram and Autolite as well at that time.

Anyway the engineer that was cutting the filters open and photographing the results reported that the Frams had less than 40% of the filter media area of most of the other filters tested and they used a cardboard anti-drainback valve that didn’t seal well where the others all used metal or a heavy plastic. The engineer was not kind on his Fram findings and said so which ended up with Larry Bossidy the ceo of Allied-Signal filing a lawsuit against the engineer and ended with him being forced to remove the website at that time, big money and big lawyers.

Anyway one of the things from all that, that I remember is that he reported very favorable findings aNd was very impressed with the wix, purolater and the Mobil 1 filters with the Mobil 1 being his personal favorites.

This info was a long time ago and Purolater is now owned by Bosch I believe, Mobil1 & Wix are still the same I believe. Personally i’ve Been using the Mobil 1 m1-110 filter with good results and I have cut them apart and will say they appear to be well made but being that I work for O’Reilly’s part time and Wix is their premium “house” brand I think the next oil change I will give them a try. Just a little info, do with it what you want.

I think if you stick with anything near recommended Yamaha oil change intervals, your choice of oil and filters really won't make much difference.


My personal choice is the Purolator Pure One PL-14610 followed by the Mobil One M1-110 as a backup. I prefer the longer 3.25" filters over the 2.5" filters. More filter media cannot hurt.

Purolator was purchased by Mann+Hummel. I have worked with them on process improvements in some facilities. Quality is as good or improved on some lines since the purchase.

I have worked with WIX as well, focus was always on improving quality while maintaining same price point.

Not an endorsement, I think everyone should choose what is best for them, based on their own experience/research. I'm just providing information.

Is that in reply to "How does one tell if an oil filter is doing better or worse job than another?" because all I see is a size cross reference.

The reason he lost was that he stated unfounded conclusions such as to the ability of the product to serve its intended purpose. The quality of the filter media. Things he didn't measure.

Others succeeded by cutting filters open and only stating observed fact: number of pleats, total surface area, weight and thickness of filter media. Material.

If paper is good enough for the filter media then what is your opposition to "cardboard" end caps or even drainback valve? Are these items failing in use?

If one only knew oil filters based on what they find on the internet one would be lead to believe the Anti-Drainback Valve is the singular most important component. That for some reason at all costs it positively must prevent oil from draining out of the filter. As contrary as it may sound, that is not its purpose. None form anything close to a perfect seal. Just fill an oil filter and lay it on its side. It will be empty in an hour.

The purpose of the anti-drainback valve is to prevent a pressure backwash when the engine is turned off. Some engines get a shockwave back through the oil passages when oil quits being pumped. This shockwave would backflush crud captured in the oil filter. The anti-drainback valve only serves to minimize this momentary backwash.

In the What Is Old Is New Again we see a resurgence in the cartridge oil filter. A pure filter element one doesn't have to cut open the can and destroy the filter to see the media. And one that 1) doesn't have a bypass valve or 2) drainback valve. If the media collapsed in use then one would see. I like cartridge oil filters.

Bugged the heck out of me that my Subaru Outback oil filter is mounted open-end down. But I bought the car anyway. Now that I've had it nearly 4 years my worry was for naught. Even the OE Subaru oil filter is nearly dry about 5-10 minutes after the engine is turned off. I suspect it drains out the center, in the normal direction of oil flow. My concern was the mess it would make when removed.

A side effect is that the Subaru oil level changes more from hot to cold than any engine in recent memory. Might be 1/4" over FULL in the morning but if checked while pumping gas be comfortably under FULL. Is hard to know exactly the right time to check. So if it is that hard I conclude it mustn't matter else they would have made it easier.