Rear shock removal - 2007 w/ abs - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Rear shock removal - 2007 w/ abs

I am replacing my stock shock with the Ohlins YA707....but am having trouble understanding how the top bolt is removed. I'm using both the service manual as well as the FJR Tech article on installing the Ohlins, but they make no particular reference to the top bolt other than saying to "loosen and remove". I have gained access to the nut, but the head is obstructed by what I'm guessing might be the innards of the ABS system. None of my references talk about the need to remove that...plus its downright scarey.....

What am I missing on getting the top-bolt removed??

NickG20
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 12:02 PM
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I have done this on a 2009 without removing the ABS. I did have to move something out of the way but it wasn't difficult. Then it was just a long extension to get at the bolt head.

I do seem to remember that I had a bit of a problem removing the OEM shock. The control cables for the 'hard/soft' were tangled up in something (wish I had taken pictures). Ended up releasing the cables from the shock itself to untangle them.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 05:02 PM
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Re: Rear shock removal - 2007 w/ abs

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickG20
I am replacing my stock shock with the Ohlins YA707....but am having trouble understanding how the top bolt is removed. I'm using both the service manual as well as the FJR Tech article on installing the Ohlins, but they make no particular reference to the top bolt other than saying to "loosen and remove". I have gained access to the nut, but the head is obstructed by what I'm guessing might be the innards of the ABS system. None of my references talk about the need to remove that...plus its downright scarey.....

What am I missing on getting the top-bolt removed??
NickG20
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Nick, gently pry the ABS/block over far enough to get your socket on the bolt/nut.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Tx, Petey from Stillwater.... was able to get socket on the bolt head, remove nut and push bolt partially out but the black bracket that holds the ABS system does not have enough movement for that top shock bolt to clear and be removed.??
And its not clear where that black bracket attaches to release it..not that I want to!...but the bolt head has probably another 40% of its head to clear before it can come out......

A bit frustrating since nothing in the several articles concerning this mod discuss this obstacle....

Thanks, again.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 04:01 PM
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Could I dare to ask what the Ohlins cost was to you? Seems that they are made of gold and platinum in Sweden....

Which is the neighbour country to Finland. Without the gold and diamond mines of SA. The original entrepeneurs bought back the company from Yamamama a couple of years ago. Quality products for sure.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 04:26 PM
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FJR1300 Shock Replacement

This is an old thread but I thought I'd add something because anyone doing a shock replacement on a Gen II or III usually hits this thread and its a bit light on info.

The big problem with the install is removing the top bolt holding the shock in place. If you remove the plate that the adjuster is bolted into, the entire ABS unit loosens up. There are four screws that hold it, two on each side. They are long and tight, especially the two on the right. On my 2014 there are two acorn type small screws that hold ABS hoses in place too. Just remove them. They WILL go back together. With those screws off and the ABS free to move about the shock comes out easily. Well as easy as anything gets when working on motorcycles I left the bolt in place so I would not have to fight to get it back in hole.
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Last edited by 95354; 12-28-2014 at 04:28 PM.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2020, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95354 View Post
This is an old thread but I thought I'd add something because anyone doing a shock replacement on a Gen II or III usually hits this thread and its a bit light on info.

The big problem with the install is removing the top bolt holding the shock in place. If you remove the plate that the adjuster is bolted into, the entire ABS unit loosens up. There are four screws that hold it, two on each side. They are long and tight, especially the two on the right. On my 2014 there are two acorn type small screws that hold ABS hoses in place too. Just remove them. They WILL go back together. With those screws off and the ABS free to move about the shock comes out easily. Well as easy as anything gets when working on motorcycles I left the bolt in place so I would not have to fight to get it back in hole.
This now a very old thread, but came up as the first result when i googled "FJR abs shock removal". After some head scratching and a couple of choice swear words, thought I'd add an additional note that not all FJR's with ABS are the same. The plumbing on 2007 ABS unit are not the same as the later model on the instruction film I watched on YouTube -

Therefore the above instructions didn't quite work. See the attached pictures to see the difference in layout.

In my case, I had to:
1. Slacken the two acorn type small screws that hold ABS hoses
2. Remove the screws holding the foot pedal's brake cylinder to the frame. With the brake cylinder free to move down a little, I was able to move its hoses out of the way.
3. I was then able to get a socket onto the shock absorber's bolt
4. When the nut was off the top bolt, however I still couldn't get it out past the ABS mounting plate. I had to use a large screwdriver to spring the ABS plate upwards slightly to get the bolt out.

Note: In my case, slackening the plate that the adjuster is bolted into actually seemed to be counter-productive, doing so moved the ABS unit downwards which meant it was more in the way than before.
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File Type: jpg 2007_FJR1300AS.jpg (431.1 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg 2015_FJR1300A.jpg (395.9 KB, 12 views)
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2020, 03:53 PM
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I've done both, but never had to take the master cylinder off... don't have my '07 any more, but there is a way to get your 17mm socket in there.
The video seems OK for Gen3.. but...

A little change of mindset also...... no need to remove the top shock bolt at all, but take your socket off it, which will allow the head to slip by ABS stuff if oriented accordingly. You only need to push the bolt out from the left side enough to disengage the shock... side benefit, you don't lose the spacer/bushing.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2020, 04:11 PM
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Timely thread, I should be getting my rebuilt Penske 8987 next week for my 2013 so I will be doing this. Thanks guys

Jerry Holland
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2020, 08:32 PM
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Yeah, the unique '07 can be a PITA, a real head scratcher. I was able to get the shock out by loosening ABS and exhaust mounts and by flexing stuff this way and that. IIRC I put a little electrical tape on a socket universal joint to stiffen it up so I could reach down in without the joint flopping around.
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