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I lowered my FJR today, both ends. $28 & 30 min.

9K views 29 replies 14 participants last post by  passx 
#1 · (Edited)
2004 FJR1300 ABS - 7,000 miles.

Wow,
I spent all winter reading, worrying, wondering.....
Then I bought these bad boys from England on eBay for $23 and had them shipped to Buffalo NY for $5.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJR-...m5d694719bf:m:mcZ_5cIdp78_lyNGU3OJMZw&vxp=mtr
They were here in under a week.
A friend and I installed the links and dropped the trees on the forks in 30 minutes.

I bought 35 millimeter (1.377 inches) or, (1 & 3/8 ) lowering links.
They also have 45mm (1.771 inches) available. (1 & 3/4).

I'm 5'5 and have a 29 or 30 inseam.
The links lowered the bike 1 & 3/8 in the rear, and we dropped the trees (raised the forks) 1 inch in front.

Here's what we did:

REAR SUSPENSION:
Put the bike in gear and rolled it forward until the trans locked.
Then we put the side stand down.
We put an automotive jack under the rear shock and lifted until the rear tire was off the ground.
My buddy was on the right side of the bike and loosened removed the two nuts on the bolts
holding the original links on.
He pried up the rear tire with a bar and slid a wooden wedge under the tire
once the bolts were unloaded.
(no weight on the suspension bolts)
He drove the bolts out gently with a punch while I held the link on my side (left side)
in place to stop the bearings from falling out.
I put the new link on my side and slid the top bolt in from the left hand side.
My buddy then used the bar to pry up the rear tire until I could get my bolt in.
(He had to pry up the 1 & 3/8 difference for the new link)
Each time I slid a bolt in, he held his link up to the right side so that when I pushed each bolt
through, I didn't end up pushing the bearings out his side this time.
We torqued them up to 30 ft lbs.

SIDESTAND:
Then we ground just over 1/16 of an inch off the side-stand stop as has been described on this site.
The side stand now sits forward of it's original location to the point where
the pad on the bottom isn't totally flat anymore.
We'll tweak the stand later I think with some heat and touch her up with spray paint.

I was still able to get the bike up on the center stand cuz I'm a husky mo' fo' (185 lbs', 5'5")
It was somewhat harder, but if it really bugs me after awhile
it looks like you can just drill two new holes underneath the stock holes and stick her back
on there. I don't think there's any VooDoo to do there either.
(If anyone has tried it, I'd love to hear from you)

FRONT SUSPENSION:
I cleaned about 2" of fork tube below the triple tree with WD40.
We then loosened the 3 pinch bolts on (1) fork tube, (2 lower, 1 upper) and raised the fork 1 ".
(Twist the fork tube gently back and forth while pulling upwards through the tree.)
Then we retorqued the bolts.
(guesstimated.... it was impossible to get a torque wrench in there)
Then we repeated the operation on the other side.
It's important to only do one side at a time.
It should be noted that I have Heli-Bar risers installed which create plenty of room
for the top of the forks to protrude through the top triple tree without
hitting the handlebars.

I can't exactly flat foot the bike, but it's somewhere between the balls of my feet and flatfoot.
Before, I had to hop off the bike to one side to come to a stop,
Now I can just touch down on both sides.
I can also paddle the bike backwards on flat pavement. (Impossible before today)
I can also swing a leg over the bike, where I had to hop on the footpeg to get a leg
over before.

RIDE REPORT!
*Heck Yeah!* :)
I felt like I lost 50 lbs right off the bat.
The center of gravity is (or feels) lower and you notice it right away.
The bike seems to turn in quick and it feels nice and light.
(I realize, I increased the rake, but it actually felt easier & lighter to turn.... go figure)
For me, it was definitely confidence inspiring.
I am an experienced rider, but that bike was a bit tall and heavy
for such a short guy with a roached back. (56 yrs old)
Now I don't have to worry about tipping the bike over in a parking
lot when my girls gets on, etc.
I don't mind tip toes on my 250 lb dual sport, but the FJR was a different story.

Today was my first day on the FJR this year.
I had just bought the bike and only put 350 miles on it last year
before storage. When I asked my good buddy to ride today.
he said to bring the links over and we'd lower it right away before
I had an "incident". LOL

So there ya have it.
No need to hang the bike from the rafters etc.
No cutting of bolts. No VooDoo.
Just a cool friend on the other side of the bike.
Take your time, think twice - move once, as my father used to say.

$28 & 30 minutes.
2 guys in a fully equipped garage.
Admittedly, my friend is a pro and works confidently and quickly.
I'm skilled, but only half as quick.

NOTE:
If I was any shorter or lighter....say a 130 lb female, I might have went with the 45mm links,
and maybe lowered it another 1/2 inch in front for a total of 1 & 3/4 rear and 1 & 1/2 front.
But I'm at 185lbs and I plan to ride 2 up a lot with my 135 ish lb girlfriend and some gear.
When my 135 lb mechanic buddy hopped on the rear in the driveway, my feet went flat on the ground.
He bounced around a bit and the suspension still felt firm (on the soft setting)
This 2004 ABS just hit 7,000 miles today, so the suspension is still very new.

Rode about 70 miles today.
I'll do a bit more and maybe mess with the suspension settings a little to see what happens,
but I'm really happy.

I hope this helps someone thinking about doing "the big" mod.
It was a cakewalk. :)
 
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#2 ·
ebay link no workie.
 
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#4 ·
Same here. I too have a gen 1, 5'5, 29" inseam, only I'm 59 years old and weigh 122lbs! I bought the bike last year with 10,000 on the clock and immediately ordered Soupy's adjustable dog bones. I would have preferred non adjustable, but I did not know how much Drop I would want. I ended up dropping it about an inch and after adjusting suspension found no compromise in handling. I considered dropping the front, but after looking at how far my forks compress already, I decided to leave it be rather than risk it hitting bottom on some big pot hole. After a year and 4000 miles, I am still very pleased. I did however add 1/2" of height to my riding boots.
 
#9 ·
Dave, just wanted to say thanks, I ordered a set yesterday, should help a bunch. I'm not as short overall at 5'11" but I only have a 30" inseam and the bikes height on anything but a flat surface is an issue and even then I'm on the balls of my feet, the Laam seat I added last year ( great seat btw) only made it worse so this should allow me to flat foot it in most conditions. I realize that I'll give up some cornering clearance but I have yet to come close to grounding anything (old age & common sense) so we'll see.
 
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#11 ·
I hope it works out for you. They were very much the same as OEM.
They were stamped and possibly galvanized, it appears.
For $28, I'm very happy.
Dropping the forks an inch really levelled things out.
It handles great.
I'm not familiar enough with the bike to worry about dragging anything yet. LOL
Usually my boots touch first anyway..... like curb feelers. ;-)
 
#16 ·
Is your 2014 bike an ES?

FYI, These are the one's I used on my 2014. They work great.

Also put the Yamaha comfort seat now I stand flat footed. I am 5'7 with a 30ish inseam.

Have used it on the twisties with no ill effects. Makes it safer in those gravel parking spaces fo sho.
Interested in the lowering link you used. I know that company from a dirt bike I had. Is your bike an ES? I would think it would not work if it were?
 
#18 ·
My friend has set of adjustable links that I'm going to get from him ( he has a 32" inseam, so no need) and I'm going to start with a 1/2" lower setting, after a ride yesterday I think that it will be enough but we'll see, just want to lower just enough to be flat footed, I don't want to repeat the stop light tipover of last year but still maintain as much ground clearance as possible, I'll let you know once I get it done and have some ride time to evaluate it.
 
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#19 · (Edited)
Just a humorous note on the difference between Gen. 1 and Gen. 2 footpegs.

My left footpeg rubber recently became detached on my 07 Gen. 2, so I replaced it with an old one I had, a long time ago, taken off my 03 Gen.1 FJR.

When comparing the two footpegs, the Gen. 1 footpeg was a good half inch {12mm} longer than the Gen. 2 footpeg, and had a larger ball on the end. {which made it's overall length, that much longer, than the Gen. 2 footpeg}

I am guessing that the Gen. 1 FJR's touched down a little too much and Mama Yama shortened the pegs to make folks less nervous.

The funny part is, I used to drag the pegs on my 03 all the time, and I almost never drag the pegs on my 07 so I was thinking that I just didn't ride as fast as I used to. LOL {Gen. 2 shocks and springs are a little stronger as well, and might be part of this equation}

PS I am not totally positive the pegs I had taken off the 03 were original equipment, and I am not totally positive the one I took off the 07 was original equipment either, as I bought both used, so this whole post might be like most of my posts, drivel. YBTJ.
 
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#20 ·
Well I finally got round to installing the adjustable links from my buddy and I lowered the bike 1/2" front and rear. I'm very happy with the results, I can sit on the bike fully flat footed and with my knees slightly bent, perfect for me. Now I haven't ridden it yet because of the weather here that's been terrible, so I'll report once I can ride it. The side stand still works correctly and getting it on the center stand is only slightly harder.

One thing I'll add is that I strongly recommend that you check your bikes rear linkages out, mine were bone dry with no lube and the front link bolt was beginning to gall and was pretty rusted, so everything got cleaned and coated with moly grease, should be a bit more compliant over bumps. Take the rear links and shock linkages apart and inspect them, you won't be sorry...
 
#21 ·
One thing I'll add is that I strongly recommend that you check your bikes rear linkages out, mine were bone dry with no lube and the front link bolt was beginning to gall and was pretty rusted, so everything got cleaned and coated with moly grease, should be a bit more compliant over bumps. Take the rear links and shock linkages apart and inspect them as is recommended in the "Periodic Maintenance and Minor Repair" chart in your owners manual, you won't be sorry...
ftfy. And since you're going to have the azz end hanging free it's a good time to check/lube your swingarm pivot bearings and the centerstand & sidestand pivots, both listed in that same chart.

Great reminder for those who are literacy handicapped or simply feel the reading instructions is for sissies. Thanks!! :kiss:
 
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#22 ·
Ok guy's I got my first ride last night on my bike that I lowered 1/2in and will say that I am quite pleased, I can sit at a light flat footed with my knees slightly bent or stand up with a gap under my arse. The funny thing is that it seems to have taken some of top heaviness out of it which I know it didn't but it feels like it. I also tried to bottom parts in some corners but didn't (not trying hard enough ?) even taking a posted 35mph off-ramp at 70 didn't seem to be enough. It does feel as though it tightened the bike up some and I know 1/2" isn't much but I think it was an improvement for me.

By the way I bought the lowering links that guitar Dave did at the start of this link but a friend offered up a set of soupy's adjustable links that he had and seemed a better path to be able to adjust things for me to get things optimum, highly recommended.
 
#23 ·
Congrats!
My observations were like yours.
I lowered it quite a bit at 1" in the front & 1 & 3/8" in the rear,
and a huge amount of the top heaviness went away.
We definately lowered our center of gravity in relation to the wheels,
so I don't think it's just in our heads.
 
#24 ·
I was wondering if you could give me the hole to hole center distance for your new lowering links? I'd like to fab up some for myself to try, and would like a head start on the math (not my strong suit) involved.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Sabreman, sorry for the slow response, unlike Phil and Russ I washed my hair and everything has been in slow motion since,,,,, anyway it appears that the links center to center distance to lower my bike 1/2" is about 7 5/8" as best I can measure. Also while you have all that apart you should take the shock linkages apart and grease it all, mine were bone dry. Good luck and let us know how it turns out and what you think.

Insulinboy,,, 36" really that would make some things in life so much easier, except for buying pants, my son-in-law where's 34" waist 36" inseam , really can't find pants easily, rather embarrassing to take him out in public like that.....
 
#25 ·
While I completely understand the need of this for some people, I'm so happy for my 36" inseam at times like this. All I can think is how much I'd like to raise the rear of the bike some to get the footpegs a little farther from the ground so I can have just a wee bit more lean angle.

Glad things like this are available though to make the bike fit you better. the bike being too tall in the saddle for someone can be a big safety issue
 
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