FJR Owners Forum banner

Oil recommendation?

79K views 184 replies 41 participants last post by  hANNAbONE 
#1 ·
Good morning fellas,

Since I am new to this bike (I have a bunch of older V4's), I was wondering what is the most recommended oil for the FJR and oil change intervals. I think they intervals tend to be higher with the synthetic oil? And how many quarts?

Thanks in advance

Mike
 
#2 · (Edited)
Read your owner's manual.

Read the innumerable oil related threads on this and other motorcycle forums.

Realize that just about everything you read on a forum is anecdotal and should be taken with a huge grain of salt. When someone posts, "I've been using XXXX oil for xx,000 miles and it works great!" it means nothing of real substance.

Read your owner's manual. Learn to understand what oil specifications mean and which oils are okay in your bike and which are not. Buy an acceptable oil.... use it.

If you really want to know how long you can safely run an oil in your bike, then send in a sample to a reputable lab and learn the facts about your oil in your bike.
 
#5 ·
As long as the oil is MA/MA2 certified, it will not make any real difference whether the oil is dino or synthetic.

Because the FJR also has a wet clutch, you need to avoid oil that contains a friction modifier.

I happen to use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40, but that is just a preference. If I were somewhere I had to change the oil and it wasn't available, I wouldn't worry about using something else.
 
#6 ·
To get the job done today, head to a local auto parts store and get, as mentioned, oil that is MA/MA2 certified motorcycle oil, OR, as mentioned Rotella T6 (not motorcycle oil but has no friction modifiers). Full-Synthetics are fine! As long as MA/MA2 or higher and there are no friction modifiers (labeled "fuel saving") are present. You'll be GREAT!
 
#9 ·
Sorry for the response above to Kevin (Pterodactul)...I just worked a 14 hour shift and I am cranky and tired. thanks for the input all.
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
2004 A model...Thanks. My other V4's are "cranky" as well. Oil and filter changes every 3,500 or so, depending on where I ride. I live in the Pacific North-West; in the summer west side near Puget Sound (75F-85F), lower temps. East-side 100+ temps in the summer.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Ditto on the Rotella T6. (Warning: Meaningless anecdotal report follows!) I've used it for years in all my wet clutch bikes without a problem. ( take Large grain of salt here!)

Note that Rotella and all other diesel oils were recently reformulated with the new stuff just entering distribution in December. Only the old stuff is on the shelf locally and there will likely be a period when you may find either or both for sale. The new oil you want is designated spec. CK-4 and, according to Shell's web site is still JASO MA/MA2 approved. The good news is that, in addition to retaining JASO approval, the new CK-4 has improved shear stability so it will lose viscosity slower as your transmission's gears chop away. It is also more stable at high temperatures. Pretty much an ideal motorcycle oil, in my humble opinion.

Read the back of the jug to be SURE you get the right CK-4, JASO MA/MA2 approved stuff as the whole purpose of the reformulation was to reduce friction and thus increase fuel economy. Some new formula diesel oils achieved this with increased and/or better friction modifiers and that would be a BAD THING in your wet clutch!

Case in point:
The new Rotella T6 Synthetic MULTI-Vehicle oil, packaged in a very similar jug, is a fleet oil made for the convenience of shops servicing both cars and trucks and IT IS NOT JASO APPROVED!!!

http://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic.html
http://rotella.shell.com/products/pc-11.html
 
#16 ·
Note that Rotella and all other diesel oils were recently reformulated with the new stuff just entering distribution in December. Only the old stuff is on the shelf locally and there will likely be a period when you may find either or both for sale. The new oil you want is designated spec. CK-4 and, according to Shell's web site is still JASO MA/MA2 approved. The good news is that, in addition to retaining JASO approval, the new CK-4 has improved shear stability so it will lose viscosity slower as your transmission's gears chop away. It is also more stable at high temperatures. Pretty much an ideal motorcycle oil, in my humble opinion.
Nitpick: JASO does not approve/certify Shell Rotella for MA/MA2. Shell self-certifies, refuses to pay JASO and/or JASO-approved laboratory for the service.

Read the back of the jug to be SURE you get the right CK-4, JASO MA/MA2 approved stuff as the whole purpose of the reformulation was to reduce friction and thus increase fuel economy. Some new formula diesel oils achieved this with increased and/or better friction modifiers and that would be a BAD THING in your wet clutch!
But once again, friction modifiers are good. Friction modification is dependent upon the materials rubbing together. One can make steel-on-steel slicker at the same time as steel-on-asbestos stickier.
 
#18 · (Edited)
JASO publishes their criteria and Shell most certainly has the means to test their oil against them so I believe them if they say, in writing, that it is JASO MA compliant. If JASO opposed "self certification" they would have taken legal steps to prevent it. If they don't care, I don't care. It's not my Nit to Pick.

Learn more about JASO and their oil specs here: http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php

ALL modern motor oils contain some friction modifiers and, certainly, not all friction modifiers are "BAD". If you REALLY want a nit to pick, the molecules of the base oil itself are themselves "friction modifiers" as well as a physical barrier between moving parts.

At SOME ill defined point, in SOME cases and circumstances, too much "friction modification" MIGHT cause problems with SOME wet clutches. That's the point.

I look for JASO MA/MA2 certification (or marking or self certification, whatever) to keep me on the safe side of that line. That said, in my foolish youth, I used Slick 50 (moly additive) in a wet clutch bike without incident! Was the moly ineffective or is the wet clutch problem overstated?

Don't know and don't want to be the guinea pig AGAIN.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Blah blah blah, BS, BS, BS.

Why does it always turn into this? Can't you people just list what you use and why you like it without pouncing on everyone else to tell them how wrong and stupid they are?

Thread closed.

EDIT: against my better judgement, thread open. But I stand by my 2nd question above. I'll go......

I use Valvoline of various weights but generally 10w-40 or 20w-50. I've even been known to mix them 50/50 to get 15w-45 just b/c I'm bored. Sometimes synthetic, sometimes DuraBlend. The frequency of use of each is in that order. I've always been a Valvoline guy so I put it in my FJR from the beginning. Blackstone Labs analysis confirmed for me it was more than suitable for my needs including the fabled clutch sheering destruction of automotive oils. I've tried others but this is what I mean when in the the beginning of this thread that my '07 is persnickety: Rotella sux- nearly impossible to downshift after 1500-1800 miles. Change oil, all is good for another 1500-1800 miles. Mobil1 sux- clutch slips like it's running in owl snot. Motorcycle-specific sux for the same reason as Rotella.

So I use Valvoline. Analysis confirms it's "good" for at least 10,000 but, depending on where I'm riding, I change it in the 4-5000 range. I do a lot of dirt roads so oil and air filters get changed often as do clutch and brake fluids.
 
#23 ·
I had a very nice relevant on-topic posting which by the time I finished the research this thread went from open to closed. It is fjrowners.com's loss as I'm not going to reproduce that work again. And will keep that in mind every time I'm tempted to post.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rbentnail
#25 ·
I queried Russ on the closing of this thread, and he decided to re-open it.

I'm pleased we have moderators who respond positively to points raised, and to be fair to him, there is little here that hasn't been said a hundred times.

There is at least one FJR Forum where I would have been banned for daring to ask a question ... actually, come to think of it, I was banned for that, or something similar ... maybe it was because I didn't react politely to being told "Go sit in the corner" :D

I use Shell Rotella T. Never had a problem, Blackstone say it's good for 10000 miles. I usually change it around 5-6000.
 
#27 ·
Isn't it about time for an Amsoil guy? Where the he11 are all the Amsoil guys?

An oil thread is not complete without one!
OK I try not to bite on oil threads.... Amzoil for the last 10 yrs... best whale gizz available of course, smoothest shifting like buttah, but only if you can get it at wholesale... switching up to Rotella 15W40 this year just for fun, T6 in the dirt bike.

I have noticed that motorcycle specific oils like Motul, BelRay, etc. retail for more than Amzoil retail..... all unbelievably expensive.
 
  • Like
Reactions: N4HHE
#28 ·
I think all said and done most any oil is good enough to prevent an engine from wearing out. What it really comes down to is cost and how well the clutch operates.
Curious if the T6 Rotella provides good clutch operation compared to X or Y. I can get that pretty easy at wally world.
 
#30 ·
Curious if the T6 Rotella provides good clutch operation compared to X or Y. I can get that pretty easy at wally world.
Yes, it's perfectly fine. Shell self-certifies T6 falls within the JASO MA specs. But to know for sure you have to try it yourself.
 
#29 ·
TT, I have been using T6 for the nearly three years I have owned my FJR. No problems with either clutch or shifting. I pretty much stick with the very conservative U.S. Yamaha oil change intervals. The oil doesn't look much different coming out than it did going in. I have never had to add oil between changes.

And I run 5W-40 year round.

Having said that, I think modern oils, mineral and synthetic, are good enough that no one will see much of a real difference on the street.
 
#31 ·
As norumgaga said above, no actual metal to metal contact actually occurs because if it does you'll have a scored at the least or a spun bearing, period.

The black stone lab analysis that Russ and others use is good advice, I personally haven't to this point but plan on changing that this year. And I'll add one more thing (oh gawd) on my 76 gl1000 that I've had from new I've run just about anything you can mention in it, full auto oils Dino and synthetic, and currently either rotella t6 15-50 or mobil1 15-50 depending on what Wally World has on sale, the fjr only gets yammylube full synthetic 15-50. The point here is use what makes you sleep better, I believe that if all is mechanically sound it don't matter, like my opinion.
 
#35 ·
#37 ·
Not offended, but thank you. I too would like to have Rotella T6 in 15W-50, thats why I asked.

At Walmart its hard enough too find Mobil-1 in 15W-50. I have a stash which is 10-15 years old which I use in the dirtbike.
 
#38 ·
Sounds like you need to switch to Valvoline ;).
 
#39 ·
Bad experiences with Valvoline motor oil. Way back when my new 4 cylinder truck only held full oil pressure at speed with Valvoline, but with same viscosity Mobil-1 held pressure most of the way to idle.
 
#42 ·
I'm standing in Walmart trying to decide which one filter to buy for my Help! I'm in Walmart right now trying to decide which oil filter to get for my 2015 FJR. My choices are the Fram 6017a and mobile one and 1-110a. Any thoughts?
Between the Fram and the Mobil 1, I would buy the Mobil 1. Oh, wait. That is what I have on my bike now. I was using a Purolator "Pure One" PL14610 or the shorter 2.5" PL14612, but they changed the design of the base recently and it may not seal properly.

Even if you have canyon cages installed, you can fit the longer filters.

But like I said a few posts back about oil, I suspect that modern filters are also good enough that if you stick with the recommended oil change intervals, you won't see much of an effect on engine life.

There is a paucity of hard data online. I use this this to guide my choice for oil filters:
https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters
 
#44 ·
You might as well go get a warranty on a rock. Both warranties have the same chance of being used. Their deal requires you to perform 23-25 oil changes using their "iconic" oil that is often sold at an inflated price. You will be placed in a position of having to change your oil in the middle of any trip that is over 4000 miles long and if you have a dealer change your oil, then the 25 oil changes will be even more expensive. So, no, in my opinion their deal is not worth the cost or hassle given the reliability of the FJR engine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: aide
#46 ·
Like you, I'm new to the FJR. I come from 100,000 miles on the NC700X on Shell Rotella T6.

My own 2 cents is that I like Shell's Rotella T6.
It's available at Walmart for not much money.

When I first asked the same question on the NC board, someone pointed out that it doesn't matter what oil you use, really, but you should look for the
JASO MA/MA2
certification listed on the back of the container.

Others are very strict and insist on the exact specification in the manual. There is certainly wisdom in that.

the web site explains it better here:
http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php

I understand that Japanese motorcycles commonly use a "wet clutch", so those oils with extra lubricants, in some oils, don't help the wet clutch function.

Oil is always a fun discussion!
A smart person I know once said "we don't have to agree on anything to be kind to eachother."
Safe travels.
 
#51 ·
Like you, I'm new to the FJR. I come from 100,000 miles on the NC700X on Shell Rotella T6.

My own 2 cents is that I like Shell's Rotella T6.
It's available at Walmart for not much money.

When I first asked the same question on the NC board, someone pointed out that it doesn't matter what oil you use, really, but you should look for the
JASO MA/MA2
certification listed on the back of the container.
Last time I looked it was listed but not with the licensed JASO logo. Shell self-certifies. Nothing wrong with that, especially when the specification is freely published. Others such as Mercedes-Benz 229.51 are kept hidden so one doesn't really know if Amsoil meets or not no matter Amoil's claims.

Google for the JASO specifications, its online for free in PDF format. Believe you want T903 and/or T904. Read them, surprisingly easy. Nothing but an aggregate of multiple existing specifications plus one unique test of oil in a purpose built wet plate clutch which uses no common parts with any motorcycle ever built.

In short, JASO MA says nothing but "Use commonly available oil which is found to be wet plate compatible." In other words, "If you clutch doesn't slip then its fine."

There is no B.S. "energy conserving" or "friction modifier" verbiage. Its a real performance specification so the writer doesn't much care how one gets the job done so long as it passes the performance requirements.
 
#47 ·
:ale: I just went throught the same process of trying to decide. Read through all the info on the site until my head hurt. Finally said the **** with it and went to Walmart and picked up Mobile 1 motororcycle oil(5 quarts for $52). Also went to dealer and picked up filter for $12 (the dealer down the street wanted $18 )now i have to decide if I want to run Fram next time for $6 from wall mart. I think I will send in a sample for testing at around 5,000 miles, maybe just change the filter.
 
#48 ·
I ran Shell Rotella T Heavy Duty Diesel Oil in my FJR1300 for 8500 miles. Bike had over 100k on the odometer.

It came back clean, with Blackstone recommending I run it for 10000 miles.

It costs about $30 per gallon less than the price you quoted. I'll stick with what I use.

However, this part of the discussion wasn't about "which oil", it was about that worthless Yamaha marketing gimmick :D
 
#50 ·
I use the regular Rotella T 15W/40 .... Not the T5 or T6

The 15W might be on the high side, but very cold starts are a rarity, and the low number is always a bit suspect. I would just as happily use 5W or 10W.

Much fuss is made about oil, with very little data.

It's vastly more important that oil is changed regularly, than anything else. I usually pick a convenient moment around 6000 miles, but at the price of that oil I don't really care if it's 5000 or 7000.

I will run the IBR without changing oil at all, unless I notice sticky gear changes, or other symptoms. In that case, it's 30 mins out of my schedule at the nearest Wal-Mart
 
#52 · (Edited)
Some oils don't carry various certifications simply because they are not tested to that standard. It does not mean they wouldn't pass that test.

It can be that the specific test is geared towards a market the oil wasn't intended for, or it can be a marketing issue .... They don't want their cheap diesel oils competing with their expensive motorcycle oils ...

There is nothing special about a motorcycle engine, but most do have two specific demands. The oil has to cope with the shear stresses in the gearbox is the first. This means that many car-specific oils (Castrol GTX, etc) are not suitable. They achieve their multigrade rating by using a light base oil, then adding viscosity enhancers. Those are long-chain hydrocarbons that raise the viscosity, but get broken down quickly in a gearbox. This also means that you can use them in a pinch, but change them soon.

A diesel engine runs well over 20:1 compression ration. The shock load on the main bearings rules out the viscosity enhancers, so diesel multigrades are made by blending base-weight oils. Nothing to break down, perfect for us.

The second issue is the clutch. If you ride a BMW with a dry clutch, you can stop here.

For the rest of us .... Friction modifiers, helpful in engine bearings, are less helpful in places you need friction ... ie, our clutches. It is thought that those compounds may cause wet clutches to slip. I have never seen any evidence of this, maybe because few have tried it, but avoiding them does seem sensible.

The rest of an oil's composition is minor, and usually related to the additives they put in for cleaning, etc.

Shell Rotella T (and others), are bog-standard Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oils that work perfectly well in our FJR1300 engines. These oils are not necessarily rated for use in a motorcycle because they haven't been tested in one. Well, they have in mine, but apparently Shell doesn't count that :)

So there you have it. It's your bike, use whatever oil you like you will never hear me complain or criticize, but if people ask (and believe me, they keep asking), I will tell them what I use, and why.

The rest is up to you.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top