With the Givi remote control, you definitely want an unswitched "always on" connection to the battery.
My Givi V56 trunk runs an LED brake light setup. While you're wiring, might want that visibility with those high up lights.
Also want to make sure you switch any accessories that remain on the motorbike when you park. Apparently there are bikers that will charge their phones off of your USB on your bike when you take lunch. So my on-bike accessible accessories only run with the key in the ignition.
Here is my fuse block analysis: FuzeBlock, Show Chrome or Eastern Beaver?
Show Chrome - so few comments about it - I threw that option away.
FuzeBlock is run by the wife of the dead founder. No more development. Now it's just a business. Lots of money for a fuse block with an integrated relay - $89. With the Fuzeblock, if the relay fails, you're stuck unless it bypasses to open circuit. Tried to see if I could buy a back-up 30A relay and as far as I can tell, it's soldered onto their PCB board. No go then.
Eastern Beaver provides 2 more circuits than the FuzeBlock. So 8 circuits and they make an FJR1300 specific wiring harness. Very tempting unless you consider that they make their fuse blocks and harnesses in China yet don't pass the savings onto you. You are paying for the engineering and the R&D development which was recouped years ago. Now it's just an order to a Chinese factory and you still pay $130?
Installed l my own fuse block from Amazon - but with 10-circuits for careful compliant expansion.
I bought $16 10-circuit fuse block with an integrated ground bus, 10' of fiberglass heat shield to protect wiring under gas tank, $10 in ring/clip connectors and a $16 Bosch relay and some 12 and 16 gauge wires . . . and saved some money.
If the relay blows, I can easily unplug and swap in a new one. Connection fails, I can troubleshoot. Back on the road. Need to add another circuit? I've got 10 circuits compared to their 6/8.
With this type of fuse block, if I blow a fuse, a red LED light will illuminate showing me which circuit I have to check and fix. Those others don't have that simple feature.
Still need basic crimping and soldering skills. Basic wiring diagram attached below. 12 gauge wires from battery terminals to the fuse block, set up a relay. Wires positive and negative to your devices from the block.
That's what I did for about $85 including the wiring harness and fuses. Freed up space on my battery terminals for the few "always on" connections (battery changer SAE port, Hella horns).
My heated grips, heated riding gear coaxial plug and dual USB charger for phones are all on a switched/relay block. When I add some Denali driving lights, I'll wire them into the fuse block too.
Reality is that you may save an hour on the install going with a commercially produced fuse block compared to working up your own. But you will still be taking off a few battery and side panels, tilting the gas tank, removing the passenger seat, running wires, setting up a relay and doing a decent amount of soldering/crimping.
The result for me was a neater and safer electrical system compared to my prior rat's nest on my battery terminals and you safely take off load from our thin Yamaha factory wiring harnesses .