Fuse Blocks? Which one? - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
Member
Trainee Sport Tourer
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 71
I thought I would follow up on this post. I got the Show Chrome fuse box for Christmas and installed it. It installed easy, seems to be of great quality and works great. It allows you to hook all the rear lights into it (which I did using the AdMore wiring adapter - easy!) and then plug the lights into it which are "all protected by four 8 amp 277 volt automatic switch relays for complete isolation". They make a point that this is good for trailers, but I like the idea of isolating the add-on lights in case of short, etc.



Here is the link again
http://www.bigbikeparts.com/template...1&GroupGuid=16

It can be found on Amazon Canada for $78 CAD

For all the wire connections, for the first time I used "solder seal wire connectors" They were so easy to use. I highly recommend them. I used my wife's crafting heat gun, which I have now claimed as mine



2GENAE likes this.

Current bike: 2015 FJR1300A
Previous bike: 2014 NC750x

Last edited by lue42; 03-07-2020 at 05:47 PM.
lue42 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 08:47 PM
Senior Member
Farkle Trainee
 
jtdunc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Seattle
Posts: 517
Garage
@lue42

That fuse block looks great! Been thinking about those heat gun solder connectors for a while. Thinking about installing heated seat pads on both bikes just because I can. Keep on wiring! Nice wire looms too. I ordered 25' and after installing some more LED sidemarker light strips on my Gold Wing, found out that I used a good 8'!!!!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg GW LED amber side.jpg (152.2 KB, 5 views)

2003 Honda Gold Wing GL1800A (Current), 2005 Yamaha FJR1300A (Former), 1985 Kawasaki GPZ900R Ninja (Former)
ATGATT - My Safety Gear Has Saved Me Twice!
Seattle/Eastside - Pacific Northwest Outdoorsman (Salmon & Shellfish)

Last edited by jtdunc; 03-24-2020 at 02:41 AM.
jtdunc is offline  
post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-23-2020, 07:00 PM
Junior Member
Training wheels fitted!
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 1
Am dealing with an Eastern Beaver fuse block for my 2018 1300. It's all new to me. Thinking to place under seat.

Question ~ How do you run the wiring from the seat to the battery?
priley25 is offline  
 
post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2020, 02:33 AM
Senior Member
Farkle Trainee
 
jtdunc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Seattle
Posts: 517
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by priley25 View Post
Am dealing with an Eastern Beaver fuse block for my 2018 1300. It's all new to me. Thinking to place under seat.

Question ~ How do you run the wiring from the seat to the battery?
On Gen I - Easiest to lift the "empty" gas tank and run from the battery up front on the right along the ride/foot brake side to under the seat. Use heat resistant fabric loom under the tank or 1/4" corrugated wire loom to protect your wiring.

ON a 2018, someone help this guy out!

2003 Honda Gold Wing GL1800A (Current), 2005 Yamaha FJR1300A (Former), 1985 Kawasaki GPZ900R Ninja (Former)
ATGATT - My Safety Gear Has Saved Me Twice!
Seattle/Eastside - Pacific Northwest Outdoorsman (Salmon & Shellfish)
jtdunc is offline  
post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2020, 07:08 AM
Senior Member
High-G FJR Junkie!
 
RaYzerman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Millgrove, ON, CA
Posts: 6,486
Pretty much that's it... if you run it above the insulation pad, spot tape is OK, just protect possible wear points.
The Fusebloc FZ1 will only take 12ga. wire, FYI, and that should be fine if not all loaded up with power hungry accessories. I ran 10 ga. on my PC8, integrated a set of booster cable connections under the seat.... with portable booster packs now, not necessary as long as your booster pack is charged, LOL, or it isn't in freezing temperatures (lithiums don't like cold).

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
1999 VFR800Fi - Pearl Shining Yellow
RaYzerman is offline  
post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-27-2020, 11:12 AM
Member
Trainee Sport Tourer
 
ice_station_zebra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by lue42 View Post
I am adding a Givi V47 top box with the E132 remote control which requires "always on" power. I also have a GPS and likely will be looking at lighting options for the Givi V47 in the future (admore, givi basic lights, etc).

After lots of research I was pretty much settled on the Fuzeblock FZ1 at $119 CAD + shipping + wiring (whether using their harness or self wired).

I considered the Denali ($175 CAD) and Innovv options and the PDM60 (just too expensive, although cool as heck).

The price is about $30 CAD cheaper than the FuzeBlock, available with free shipping and comes with the wiring harness. It is limited to 2 x 12v always on and 3 x switched connections. The Fuzeblock has 6 which can be either. It also has wiring for lights (interesting, but not sure how useful it would be).

I am really interested in any opinions on this Show Chrome one or any of the others.
I Looked at everything and decided on the PDM60. Very small (2" x 3" x 1") fits anywhere and is completely solid state, maintenance free. Handles up to 60amps so more than enough with one of the circuits programmable to 20amps. Overkill I know, but I just couldn't resist the technology and they are a FANTASTIC company to deal with and It really help clean up the spaghetti mess of wiring I had all over the place. I ended up installing it out of sight under the tail. My next choice was the 8 circuit Eastern Beaver, also an excellent product from everything I've read.


2008 FJR, 2012 Versys 650
HD Ultra Classic
BMW K1200RS
HD DynaGlide
HD Sportster
Honda CB750K
Yamaha 650
Honda CB450
Honda 175
etc
etc
Vespa 50cc
ice_station_zebra is offline  
post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-27-2020, 11:41 AM
Senior Member
Farkle Trainee
 
Kiwiaudio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Findlay, Ohio
Posts: 533
"Solder seal wire connectors" - Love that idea - How did they get by me ?
140 pack on amazon for around $14 !!

Kiwi
1974 Yamaha DT175
1976 Suzuki RM250A
1978 Yamaha TT500
1980 Kawasaki KLX250
1984 Honda 650Nighthawk
1998 BMW R1100RT
2013 Yamaha FJR1300A
Kiwiaudio is offline  
post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-27-2020, 01:07 PM
Member
Trainee Sport Tourer
 
ice_station_zebra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwiaudio View Post
"Solder seal wire connectors" - Love that idea - How did they get by me ?
140 pack on amazon for around $14 !!
Never worked well for me .... the sheath usually melted before the solder and when it does work you end up with a very rigid, no pliability at all connection.

2008 FJR, 2012 Versys 650
HD Ultra Classic
BMW K1200RS
HD DynaGlide
HD Sportster
Honda CB750K
Yamaha 650
Honda CB450
Honda 175
etc
etc
Vespa 50cc
ice_station_zebra is offline  
post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
Member
Trainee Sport Tourer
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by priley25 View Post
How do you run the wiring from the seat to the battery?
I happen to have a pack of 3 foot long zip ties lying around and it was perfect to run a string from the seat area to the battery area. I kind of just kept poking at it and guiding it and it made it through perfect. The zip tie has a decent curve that helped. So, something long and relatively solid should do the trick. Obviously, once I had the string through I used it to pull the thicker power wires through.

Current bike: 2015 FJR1300A
Previous bike: 2014 NC750x
lue42 is offline  
post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
Member
Trainee Sport Tourer
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by ice_station_zebra View Post
Never worked well for me .... the sheath usually melted before the solder and when it does work you end up with a very rigid, no pliability at all connection.
I have used all the sizes that came in the pack and they all worked well with the heat gun I used. I shrunk the ends first and let them cool a second to keep the wires in place then directed the heat right at the middle where the solder is. The tip of my heat gun is quite focused. Maybe your heat gun was too hot or not focused enough? I saw guys on YouTube using a lighter successfully with them. Yes, it is rigid but no more than other wires I have connected and put standard heat shrink on. I don't think it is much better or worse than other methods, just another option.

Current bike: 2015 FJR1300A
Previous bike: 2014 NC750x
lue42 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome