Is anyone have experience using -T-Rex canyon cages w sliders and Garauld hwy pegs? I already have the Garauld hwy pegs ??. Looking at pictures @ t-Rex site both would be a tight fit? Gen3
Thanks
If your referring to Garauld's brackets for highway pegs, I don't think they'll work with the T-Rex engine guards. Mounting pegs to the 7/8" tubes is a PITA all it's own. I bought several pairs of traditional pinch clamps and shimmed the heck out of them only to have them constantly slip. I bought a pair of cheapo handle bar risers off ebay and so far they're working pretty well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Motor...098372?hash=item4661f41b04:g:kcMAAOSwmCVY-car Pics installed:
I didn't look hard enough as you can find them in black as well for nearly the same money. I probably should get some plasti-dip and fix my color coordination problem.
Someone on here posted a while back about some sourced from Germany which were for BMW's but were priced accordingly as well. They looked great though if you had $250 to spend.
That is AWESOME BigC!
Because I have been looking for a "Footrest" solution to deal with my T-REX RACING Engine Frame Sliders... The color coordination might be a small issue. I have located this bracket arrangement in terms of color coordination...
Reviving this old thread. Visited T-Rex's website and submitted my email addy so they can send a reply when these engine guards are back in stock. Adding these is my plan for this winter.
I agree. I don't let that happen normally; I make the body-shift needed for the curve. Like I said, it takes a serious off-camber turn, or a turn sharper than expected, or maybe other surprises, to make things scrape in a turn. Some of our mountain roads were built for buckboard wagons (no joke), not for this century. The roads often go around big rock outcrops where we would now drive a tunnel through the rock.
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I get fat, dumb and lazy until I scrape my boot toe. I've never scraped a hard part. The boot toe is a wake up to tuck my toes in and commit to riding.
The crash bar set I just received from T-Rex consisted of the left and right side engine bars and left and right side saddlebag guards, and of course all the needed hardware and excellent installation instructions. All installed without using any swear words or throwing things. The set also included a front axle slider which went on but with a little tweak to the length of the rod that passes thru the hollow center of the front axle. The trouble was minor and the fact that the kit included installation instructions for an engine mounted slider instead of those for an axle slider was no big deal. The front axle slider goes on intuitively (for me it was,,, not usually do I get that lucky). The problem with the excessively long stem rod was that it measured to be 0.152" too long which caused the RH side slider puck to have a gap between it and the side of the fork. It is just an aluminum rod deeply threaded into both ends to accept the pucks at both ends. I chucked the rod into my lathe and cut 0.155" off the length,,, all's good now. The thread depth into both ends of the rod were plenty deep enough that I could lop off just one end of the rod and not cause the puck bolt to bottom out inside. Plan B was to split the difference and trim half of the 0.155" off each end... Plan A worked,,, again, I'm usually not that lucky..
Anyways, if anybody runs into the front axle slider rod being too long my simple lathe work is free to any members of this forum,, just pay for your S&H both ways.
I'm making Christmas wish list (to make my wife's life easier :wink2: ). I have T-Rex engine / fairing guards on my FJR, and would like to find good quality highway pegs made to fit them. I know T-Rex makes highway pegs for their engine guards, but to me they look very "industrial", and I am looking for something less obvious. Does anyone know of good quality, unobtrusive, highway pegs made to fit a 7/8" engine guard / crashbar ?
Thank you!
Got my T-Rex guards installed. Easy peasy. The front axel slider rod was too long. I went caveman as I don't have a lathe and used a hack saw to cut 1/4" off the end of the rod, a file to clean it up and then ran a tap through it to clean the threads. The rod is in tension so the length is not critical.
And I was glad it was so obvious how the front axle slider goes together and onto the bike because T Rex doesn't even have an instruction sheet for this, but nice enough of them to find one close enough and let us figure it out from there. :grin2:
Just a little smile from me... if you've ever seen an FJR laying on its side, those front axle sliders aren't anywhere near the ground.... purely decorative IMHO. Carry on, they don't look bad at all.
Yep. Mine have been down twice. Not a scratch due to my judicious and quite small investment in t-Rex and r&g protection. Nothing near the axle. From those experiences, I figured axle sliders must be for some other purpose than protection.
The more I think about the T-rex ones the more I like them. Lots of variability on where to position them and honestly, the looks are starting to grow on me. You can't beat the cost either.
From my experience with the Givi bars and the research online there are no options out there that work without drilling/threading into your bars and using a set screw on shimmed 1" versions. That is always an option and opens a world of options for you. Really, how often would you remove or move them once you find the position that works for you?
I had clamps for 7/8" bars, which we know are just a tad to big. I drilled and tapped a hole and used a set screw to hold them on the T Rex bars. Worked great. I don't have the bike anymore so pictures aren't available
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