|By Cromeit on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 02:34 am:|
Here it is, left side heat mod (left side only).
Please understand that we (Rideit55 & myself) have been dealing with this horrible heat just as all of you have during these hot days. We have created a heat shield that effectively eliminates direct left side heat. Installing this mod made a very noticeable difference from what you maybe experiencing now. Having made this mod on three FJR's all three of us agree: NO MORE LEFT SIDE HEAT. This is a very simple fix once the part has been fabricated by using the template provided. Once the part has been made the installation that follows should take another 30-45 minutes. Understand, the part that you see in the photos was made in my garage with a Dremel cut off tool and bent on a Black&Decker workbench, which took us approximately 30 minutes. The only other tool that will be needed for this is a drill with a 5/16" bit to drill the mounting hole. The bends are 90 degree and are marked on the template.
A tight fit of the part on the bike is required to gain full effect of the mod (see photos). So proper bends are critical. Bend bottom tab last. The bottom tab needs to be tight against the bottom frame mount (see photos). DO NOT PRE DRILL PART. Once part has been positioned properly then mark the part from the backside through the engine mount hole, remove the part then drill the 5/16" hole. Use a 5/16" X 1" stainless bolt then position and mount the part. Reinstall left fairing panel but DO NOT REINSTALL THE SMALL BLACK AIR DIRECTION PANEL (see photo). Removing this panel redirects the hot air flow down and out rather than directly on your leg. If for cosmetic reasons you feel uncomfortable leaving the panel out, you may opt for the cutaway version of the panel (see photo).
Template for cut out...
Mounting tab on engine for part...
Part positioned and mounted...
DO NOT REINSTALL AIR DIRECTION PANEL...
Cutaway version of air direction panel...
Final assembly view...
Finishing photos of right side fix to follow...
|By Kbutler on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 04:52 am:|
Home Depot here we come!!!
|By Karg on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 05:14 am:|
Thanks for the fix!
What effect if any does this modification have on the heat which gets to the gas tank and eventually to one's crotch area?
That's where I feel most of the heat.
|By Zman on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 06:59 am:|
Great job Cromeit. I know what I'm doing this weekend. They're calling for another 97 degrees for tomorrow.
|By Jwm on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 01:11 pm:|
Ok, I see what you have done but I'm just a bit concerned. You have redirected the air away from the gap, where does it exit the engine area now?
|By Jwm on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 01:13 pm:|
2nd thought, does this cause the bike to run any hotter than normal?
|By Kieth on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 01:14 pm:|
Karg, cromeit had no crotch heat on his bike. To see the fix for crotch heat go to "Search by keyword" Topic "Keith's mods" area: "Gallery" you will see the crotch heat mods which we did 1 year ago that solved the crotch heat here in Oklahoma. When Stopped in Traffic during 105degree weather with 90% humidity you will still get a little warm but you will not loose the family jewels. As long as you are moving it is fine. In really hot weather do not run the fuel tank below 1/4 of a tank of fuel.
You need the tank as full as possible to absorb some of the heat. Kieth
|By Cromeit on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 02:42 pm:|
Jwn - The hot air is now redirected down and out and now exits down by the collection area. The bike does not run any hotter; in fact on FastBags bike he said his ran cooler.
Karg - Keith is correct about crotch heat. Keep tank as full as possible to absorb some of the heat. I do not have crotch heat on my bike, but notice more tank heat at the bottom edges of the tank when it is almost empty.
|By Cromeit on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 02:48 pm:|
Also forgot to mention that after the part has been cut out and bent, you need to smooth and round the sharp points and straight edges.
|By Simplesimon on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 09:40 pm:|
It works like a charm Cromeit. I did the fix this morning and it makes the bike quite a bit more enjoyable to ride. I used a little thinner material(an aluminum sign from the local hardware store) it was about $10. It measures .037 where Cromeit used .063 material. This thinner material worked fine and it may be easier for some of you guys out there to bend. You will always continue to feel heat from the bike but it is no longer concentrated on your ankle or any other area. I did get a lot of heat from the tank and it was the 1st thing I fixed when I got it home. It takes a pretty big imagination to think of that reflective tape that yamaha put under the tank as insulation. I don't think it had any insulation properties whatsoever. I sandwiched to pieces of foil-backed insulation together and made a blanket for the underside of the tank. I attached it with spray adhesive and the tank no longer gets hot anytime at any level. I think I've got all my small annoying problems fixed. THANKS CROMEIT, YOU DID GOOD!!!!
|By Funkywinkerbean on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 10:32 pm:|
Simplesimon (or any experienced tank insulator)-
You mentioned insulating under the tank. I am going to tackle that job this week.
Question: how do I remove the tank? Do I have to drain it first? What do I disconnect to have access to the bottom of the tank?
I have some 3" wide adhesive foil-backed pipe insulation (good for 250 degrees) and some aluminum tape. One or two layers should do the job.
Thanks in advance!
|By Simplesimon on Sunday, September 14, 2003 - 02:34 am:|
Funky, Run the tank down to 1 bar on the gauge. Prepare a couple of old blankets or anything else that you can think of to lay the tank upside down on without scratching it. You can leave some gas in it. I didn't drain it. Then remove both seats. There are really only 3 bolts that hold the tank to the bike (2 on the front and 1 bolt that goes thru the back where the seat meets the tank. There are also 2 of the fasterners that connect the black shroud located on the sides of the tank to the tank. These are the type that you push the center in to make them release. Be careful that you don't lose the rubber gommets that these fit into. Sometimes they will fall out. You can do this by yourself, but it is much easier if you have someone to help hold the tank up 5"-6" to enable you to disconnect everything from the bottom of the tank. There are 2 electrical plugs, squeeze and pull them apart. Next there are 2 fuel lines from the tank to the fuel rail. I assume the one with the filter is the supply and the other the return. Hold the front of the tank as high as possible and there may be some gas comes out when you do this. It is a good idea to wear safety glasses. You can swivel or turn these hoses towards the top of the tank and gas should not come out. You can plug these hoses with a pencil. There are also 2 overflow hoses that should be disconnected located on the left side of the tank that go all the way underneath the bike. These 2 shouldn't have anything in them. You should now be able to put the tank on something safe upside down. I used some foil backed insulation that I obtained from an air conditioning man with about 2" of yellow insulation on it. I took a second piece and pulled the foil away from the insulation material. I put this on the yellow insulation side of the first piece and taped it around all of the edges with foil tape to make a blanket. I removed the metal brackets (attached with allen screws) on the top and bottom of the tank. I sprayed the adhesive to the bottom of the tank and after it got tacky I secured my blanket. I then replaced the 2 brackets and re-installed the tank. Don't use duct tape on the bottom of the tank because the glue will melt and you will smell it. Don,t ask me how I know. I realize that this sounds like a lot but it really isn,t hard to do. If this is done well the tank will never get hot. I hope this helps you.
|By Gr8eyes on Sunday, September 14, 2003 - 04:08 am:|
Cromeit, I'll try this. Maybe I can do it. I really appreciat your work on this
PS the under tank insulation works great especially if you use at least 1/4" thick insulated foil
|By Bobvail on Sunday, September 14, 2003 - 05:35 pm:|
I insulated the tank with FrostKing self adhesive foil and foam duct insulation. It has a layer of foil on one side of the 1/8" thick foam material and adhesive on the other side, so it's self sticking. I think that one could put two layers down for the 1/4" results, but I used one layer and it made an improvement. Tank gets warm, but not hot.
I tried to put the stuff down w/o removing the tank, but it was almost impossible to do right, so I removed the tank. Not a difficult job at all. I did remove the gas from the tank. There is no way to drain it, so I bought a syphon pump from Autozone for around ten bucks. Got most of the gas out.
I bought the duct insulation from either Home Depot or Loews (can't remember which) for about ten bucks. it is 12" X 15' X 1/3" and the SKU # is 0 77578 02333 5. Frost Kins phone # is 800-93-FROST.
At the same time I purchased som air conditioner weatherstrip that is intended to seal a window a/c. It is made by md specialty. I bought it at the same store for about five bucks. It comes in a strip 42" long X 2 1/4" X 2 1/4" and does a good job of blocking the space between the fairing and the frame. Don't know why they put that little piece of foam in there and left all that space open. Must not have had anything to do with heat isolation.
When I re-installed the gas tank I tightened the long fastener at the rear of the tank a bit more than the factory did. When I was ready to lower the tank down on the front I saw that the tank would not drop down on it's own and needed a little pressure. This was an added benefit, since now I don't need a prop rod or piece of wood to hold the tank up
Also, when I was removing the tank (hoses, etc.) I did notice some significant deterioration of some of the rubber clamps that hold the hoses in place. Must be a heat factor. If they go completely, I will probably try to use some nylon zip ties, because I think the gizmos that Yamaha put on there would be mighty difficult to find replacements for. Hard enough to obtain replacement headbolts, etc., from what I hear...
p.s. I will definitely try Cromiet's latest fix. And to those naysayers that get a stiffy by posting smarmy comments, phooie on yooie Your comments are not productive in the least. Keep up the good work sharing ideas fellas.
|By Rideit55 on Monday, September 15, 2003 - 03:16 am:|
Cromeit, Took the bike on a 300mile run today and met up with fastbags on the coast, Can't say enough how nice it is to not have hot air blasting on my left side.Once on the coast I could have used the blast furnace it was overcast and cold.Heading back home as the temps got to the 100's+ I remembered how it USED to be.. Thanks again Cromeit for all the work.
|By Zman on Monday, September 15, 2003 - 04:30 am:|
I'm pretty sure you're supposed to tighten that pivot bolt at the back of the tank AFTER you've lowered the tank down and installed the two front bolts.
|By Zman on Monday, September 15, 2003 - 04:38 am:|
I applaud you and any others involved in the design of "The Heat Shield". Brilliant work!
I no longer feel like I have a heat gun aimed at my shin while riding. Now it feels like the right side does, in other words, not bad at all.
I didn't remove the air direction panel...maybe I'll try that next to see what difference it makes.
|By Bobvail on Monday, September 15, 2003 - 07:25 pm:|
I got it just tight enough to keep it from dropping down w/o a little help. This could be useful when working 'under the hood', as in syncing the TBs.
|By Cromeit on Monday, September 15, 2003 - 08:14 pm:|
ZMAN, Rideit55, FastBags and Simplesimon, Thanks for the positive feedback, glad it worked for you and you are most certainly welcome.
|By Rogdeb on Tuesday, September 16, 2003 - 12:55 am:|
Thank you Cromeit for all your hard work on the heat fix
I haven't been troubled with the heat as much as some of you, but have made the insert for the left side anyway(not fitted to the bike yet) and look forward to seeing your fix for the right side
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