Rainy day crush washer test - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Rainy day crush washer test

Just back from a cruise to Alaska...the weather was better in the rain forest up there than it is now in Spokane. Good day to change the oil.

Today, out of curiosity I decided to see what happens when I tried various used and new crush washers on my FJR. I do not offer the results as absolute truth, with any conclusions or indeed , for anything except for idle interest.

Method. I took each washer under test (WUT) , installed it on the drain bolt, and hand tightened it using a deep well socket with no ratchet or breaker bar. I then marked the bolt’s relative rotational position by marking its outer edge with a magic marker and putting another mark on the protective flange. I used two different torque wrenches which I tested using a scale and grade school math. One was set to 20 ft-lbs (20) and one to 35 ft lbs (35) . I then tightened the bolt as smoothly and continuously as possible and using a mirror (which changes the direction of rotation) , took a pic of the rotational movement and noted it by measuring the pics on my computer screen with a protractor. I tested two washers, the OEM one, new and used, and the Honda 14000, new and used, which is used on my CRV and my NT700V. My NT700v says to torque the bolt to 22 ft-lbs. My CR-V manual says 33 ft-lbs. IIRC, the FJR manual says 35 Ft-lbs for the oil drain bolt, 17 for the diff drain and fill.
Last Fall, I put in the winter oil and put on a new OEM washer, torque to 22 ft-lbs. I didn’t ride very much this winter. I broke the torque loose with a satisfying “snap” letting me know the bolt was in no danger of falling out.
Test one. WUT is OEM washer, used once. I torque it to 20, and the bolt turned 25-30 degrees. I broke the torque (easy) and then tightened to 35. The bolt had turned 60 degrees from hand tight.
Test two. WUT is a new Honda flat washer. 20 produced about 60 degrees of rotation. 35 produced about 100 degrees. (No, I did not change washers between 20 and 35 but I didn’t break the torque either.)
Test three. WUT is the used Honda washer, now significantly flattened and distorted. 20 produced 30 degrees, 35 produced about 70.
Test four. WUT is a new OEM washer. I torqued it to 20 ft-lbs and the bolt head rotated 270 degrees. I elected to not torque it to 35 ft lbs and filled the crank case.
Two pics...one of the OEM new washer test, two is what the washers look like after 35 ft-lbs of torque.

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:37 PM
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I knew you were on the right track when you came-up with your own acronym (WUT). All good science entails acronym development early in the process.

You are fortunate that you had no issues during the 35 ft/lb tightening.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:53 PM
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You have WAY to much time on your hands, LOL. In 40 yrs I have never torqued a drain plug, and on occasion , I actually use a new washer , but not often. Never had one leak, fallout , or strip (touch wood on that one).

Have fun
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 10:08 PM
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So the bottom line is 20 ft lbs should be adequate for torque on that bolt using oem seal? I am in CDA and also waiting for the rain to stop. It's been a wet six months.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 10:14 PM
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Did you mic the fresh and crushed thickness of the washers?
Beginning thickness and washer metellurgy are critical to crush pressure(torque ftlbs) and deformations.
What do you conclude from your test?

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 07:04 AM
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Wut ? Wtf ? 😱

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 07:59 AM
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I guess the final test would be to determine at what torque do the aluminum threads strip out of the engine block. Please keep us posted. :-)

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 08:08 AM
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It is well documented that the Yamaha spec of 31 ft. lbs. (plus any error with your torque wrench) can strip the oil pan threads. I would advise nobody go there. It has been also said that 17 ft. lbs. is adequate to start crushing the OEM style crush washer. I like a little safety factor, so would use 20. Once the washer crushes, you are done. Further tightening just crushes it more until it's fully crushed, then your torque value will increase until it becomes a flat steel washer. Many have re-used the crushed washer without issue, but again, never go to 31 ft. lbs.

In fact, I use the Honda flat aluminum washer, torqued to 20-22 (Honda says 22), but I've developed the "feel" over time. This will minimize distortion and the flat washer will last quite a few oil changes.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 08:55 AM
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Red face

Now You guys tell me just after changing oil. But I do get my torque wrench calibrated.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:35 AM
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I don't use a crush washer and I tighten my oil drain plug, final drive drain & fill plugs with an impact gun.........

I used to think that the FJR was an old man's bike. Then I got one and absolutely love it. Hey...wait a minute!
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