U-joint inspection - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
 8Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Farkle Trainee
 
Coyote Chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Spokane
Posts: 307
U-joint inspection

This week I am going to pull the rear wheel of my 2014 for a new tire, and pull the pumpkin and drive shaft . I want to inspect/lube the U-joint but I lost the web instructions on how to access it.
It looks like from the OEM manual that I pull the Left footrest Assy./shift arm and the dust covers (page 4-10,( Haynes 6-31). and I can pull it out for inspection and lube.

Any tricks?

It looks like the trim clip on the inner dust cover should be approached carefully....
Coyote Chris is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 04:14 PM
Senior Member
Farkle Trainee
 
lagain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: West Sussex United Kingdom
Posts: 749
Send a message via AIM to lagain
It comes apart very easily, but the only benefit of lubricating the splines is if you need to remove the drive shaft at a later date.
The splines do not move, any movement in the drive shaft is compensated for by slight horizontal movement from the gearbox.
You need to ease the joint apart with a large screw driver. Never ever just pull the rear hub backwards as you can dislodge the seal that keeps the hub oil in.
It is not possible to lubricate the UJ.
Unless you do a huge mileage through the winter and it gets very mucky it is one of those things that is best left alone.

However removing the rear wheel is an excellent time to lubricate the 3 bearings on the suspension linkage.
When it swings free you can check that the 4th bearing is OK - which it will be !
philharmonic likes this.

Past bikes; Honda 50 Suzuki 50 Yam XS250 Yam XJ650 Yam XJ 900 Honda CX650 Turbo Yam FJ1100 Yam FJ1200 (2) Honda ST1100 (2) Yam FJR1300 (5) 670,000 miles !
lagain is offline  
post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Farkle Trainee
 
Coyote Chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Spokane
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by lagain View Post
It comes apart very easily, but the only benefit of lubricating the splines is if you need to remove the drive shaft at a later date.
The splines do not move, any movement in the drive shaft is compensated for by slight horizontal movement from the gearbox.
You need to ease the joint apart with a large screw driver. Never ever just pull the rear hub backwards as you can dislodge the seal that keeps the hub oil in.
It is not possible to lubricate the UJ.
Unless you do a huge mileage through the winter and it gets very mucky it is one of those things that is best left alone.

However removing the rear wheel is an excellent time to lubricate the 3 bearings on the suspension linkage.
When it swings free you can check that the 4th bearing is OK - which it will be !
OK, if I understand you, when the pumpkin nuts come off, it is possible that the shaft will not easily separate from the splines of the U-Joint????? And the best way to get around this is to
put a screw stick in between the pumpkin and the shaft housing?

Yes, the days of zerk fittings on U-joints are gone, like the fork drain plugs on my 1960s Japanese bikes....
I do miss the zerk fittings on my Kawasaki C10 suspension components....

I am curious about how much lube if any is on the drive shaft splines and the splines of the output shaft and in the U-joint.

Prop shaft slip joints dont need much grease but they do need some. It stands to reason. Leading throttle, trailing throttle....repeat . Even going down the road, bare metal will wear against bare metal. Once the toleraces open up, the rate of wear accelerates greatly. A big concern here? Probably not. But the lubing is easy.
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ead.php?t=1583
Coyote Chris is offline  
 
post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 08:55 PM
Senior Member
FJR Top Gun
 
Queensland Ken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Queensland
Posts: 1,184
Garage
You will need a torx 25 and best to to have a set of hex head drives.
It good idea to lube the middle shaft and drive splines, sometimes the universal is very hard to remove if never serviced, it develops a knock.
Place bike on centre stand and run it up through the gears and check.
You will get a ABS fault light, hopefully.
Clean up the universal but don't wash out the needle rollers.

In Thrust we Trust

2014 FJR AE ....The Aussie ES
2013 Stelvio NTX
2010 Spyder RT-S Limited Edition
2007 GSX1400
2002 TL1000R
Queensland Ken is offline  
post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 09:51 PM
Senior Member
Farkle Trainee
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 792
Quote:
Originally Posted by Queensland Ken View Post
Place bike on centre stand and run it up through the gears and check.
You will get a ABS fault light, hopefully.
I got that today when I was checking the clutch operation, on the lift.

Steve

2005 Yamaha FJR1300A
Steve Bracken is offline  
post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 10:49 PM
Senior Member
High-G FJR Junkie!
 
bounce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 2,370
http://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/ujoint/uj.html

Ridden wet. Put up hard.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
bounce is offline  
post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Farkle Trainee
 
Coyote Chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Spokane
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by Queensland Ken View Post
You will need a torx 25 and best to to have a set of hex head drives.
It good idea to lube the middle shaft and drive splines, sometimes the universal is very hard to remove if never serviced, it develops a knock.
Place bike on centre stand and run it up through the gears and check.
You will get a ABS fault light, hopefully.
Clean up the universal but don't wash out the needle rollers.
Thanks! Yes, a good torx set and hex head drivers has been useful for years.....
My bike has 5666 miles on it and has been on the road for a year. I am expecting no issues but they are good to know about.
I agree that with "sealed" type U-joints, you never wash them with solvents. I had a "sealed" U-joint fail on a service van I was driving and the drive shaft dropped out. If I can remember, I will record the end play of the
drive shaft spline to U-joint spline. I dont expect to find any metal particles in the wash of the actual splines but we shall see.....
Coyote Chris is offline  
post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 11:33 PM
Senior Member
Farkle Trainee
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 792
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coyote Chris View Post
Thanks! Yes, a good torx set and hex head drivers has been useful for years.....
My bike has 5666 miles on it and has been on the road for a year. I am expecting no issues but they are good to know about.
I agree that with "sealed" type U-joints, you never wash them with solvents. I had a "sealed" U-joint fail on a service van I was driving and the drive shaft dropped out. If I can remember, I will record the end play of the
drive shaft spline to U-joint spline. I dont expect to find any metal particles in the wash of the actual splines but we shall see.....
It's a well designed part of the bike, with no real issues. At 5000 miles you're golden.

The only caveat is that some bikes may have been delivered from the factory with insufficient lube on the splines.

You need Moly Paste, at leats 60-70% Moly content. You don't need much, a light coating is all. Do not forget to do both ends of the UJ, which means removing the footrest support and the shields to get at it. It goes back in with no problems.

Steve

2005 Yamaha FJR1300A
Steve Bracken is offline  
post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 11:55 PM
Moderator
FJR Top Gun
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Corinth, TX just south of Denton on I35E
Posts: 1,628
Chris, I think you are over thinking the whole process.

Once you unbolt the pumpkin, the driveshaft will slip out with the pumpkin. Just carefully set the whole assembly aside. No need to disassemble it farther.

Once you reach the dust covers for the U-joint, unbolt the outer one with the two screws securing it. The inner dust cover is held in place by a 7 mm push rivet. Removing it takes a little wiggling, but it comes out with no problem.

On a relatively new bike, the U-joint will slide right out.

When I pulled my U-joint, I found just a very light coat of grease on it.

It goes back together just as easily.

2013 FJR
JohnC is offline  
post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Farkle Trainee
 
Coyote Chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Spokane
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bracken View Post
It's a well designed part of the bike, with no real issues. At 5000 miles you're golden.

The only caveat is that some bikes may have been delivered from the factory with insufficient lube on the splines.

You need Moly Paste, at leats 60-70% Moly content. You don't need much, a light coating is all. Do not forget to do both ends of the UJ, which means removing the footrest support and the shields to get at it. It goes back in with no problems.
Exactly. I still have a good supply of Honda Moly Paste so I am good to go. Yes, I am removing the UJ and doing some inspection as to its current endplay, metal particles, etc. Once it is lubed, I dont plan on doing it again for years, if I live....
Coyote Chris is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bad Universial joint? Chappy FJR Technical 10 10-23-2016 02:43 AM
U-Joint Quick Fastener? eric_f FJR Technical 3 09-04-2014 01:33 AM
Pre-inspection help cjfelicetti FJR Technical 2 06-11-2014 02:16 PM
C14 Valve Inspection makes me... n7slc General Chat 2 04-23-2014 11:51 PM
Drive shaft stuck in the U-joint sath182 FJR Technical 28 10-12-2012 10:28 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome