Please proof read Fr. Wheel removal - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Please proof read Fr. Wheel removal

I put on a front tire yesterday. The next time I do that I could well be older! LOL!
Please proof read my notes and let me know if I left out something....
(BTW, I paid over the web $345 for fr and Rear tires delivered. dealer charges $30 to install each on rim.
Dealer normally charges $550 for tires if they order and 60 each to install on bike)
(Sorry about youtube vids. Links are in word doc I am making)

Removing and installing the front wheel on an 2014 FJR 3/17
f and r
rear

1. Make photocopy of page 4-22 from manual. Break axel nut loose with 22 mm socket.
2. Put front end in the air by putting lead brick weights on seat and luggage rack, and board under exhaust using jack under board. (Might need as much as a half to a third of a mother-in-law on rear seat/luggage rack to raise front wheel)
3. Break loose 4 caliper bolts loose using quality 12 mm socket. Remove hose guide bolts.
4. Remove 4 caliper bolts. Cant/wiggle/**** calipers side to side and spread pads so you can remove calipers. Put wood blocks in calipers. Put masking or duct tape on rim if desired during caliper removal.
5. Using 6mm allen socket, break pinch bolts loose. Donít remove. Push/pull axel out using Ĺ unscrewed axel nut to push. Remove Axel while supporting wheel. Mind the spacers and ABS sensor housing positions.
Installation. (Remove two grease seals each side and relube wheel bearings if desired)
1. Clean and lube axel and spacers. Put spacers into wheel, and position ABS housing on wheel. Note notch in housing for lug on fork.
2. Install wheel by sliding axel in. Make sure ABS housing notch is lined up. Take your time.
3. Torque axel nut to 66 ft/lb using 19 mm Allen socket on right and 22 mm socket on left.
4. Measure pad depth and record. Install calipers in reverse order above. 29 ft/lbs. Install hose guide bolts.
5. Lower bike onto front wheel. Pump forks. Tighten Left 6mm Allen pinch bolts to 15 ft lbs. Go back and forth between the two bolts at least three times.
6. Pump forks again and tighten Right pinch bolts, same as step 5. Check tire pressure. Test ride. ABS light goes out.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 03:53 PM
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Watched enough of the first video to make some notes......
- A jack under the headers makes everything much easier and safer than a pitbull stand or jack stands.
- if at the beginning and end of your removal/install, you have the jack lowered you won't have to wrestle the wheel up and down to line up the axle shaft. Alternately, you can put a longer piece of board under the tire to lift up and down a bit.
- Before removing calipers, undo the upper bolt (8mm socket) that holds the brake lines and you will find your calipers are much easier to remove now that you have that extra little bit of brake line length. You likely won't need masking tape to protect your wheels.
- You are well advised to undo the ABS sensor instead of risking damage by dangling it from the bike. It is in the manual.
- No need to remove grease seals to relube wheel bearings, they are well sealed and permanently lubed.

Ray
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Watched enough of the first video to make some notes......
- A jack under the headers makes everything much easier and safer than a pitbull stand or jack stands.
- if at the beginning and end of your removal/install, you have the jack lowered you won't have to wrestle the wheel up and down to line up the axle shaft. Alternately, you can put a longer piece of board under the tire to lift up and down a bit.
- Before removing calipers, undo the upper bolt (8mm socket) that holds the brake lines and you will find your calipers are much easier to remove now that you have that extra little bit of brake line length. You likely won't need masking tape to protect your wheels.
- You are well advised to undo the ABS sensor instead of risking damage by dangling it from the bike. It is in the manual.
- No need to remove grease seals to relube wheel bearings, they are well sealed and permanently lubed.
Thanks for the input. I agree 100 percent with the jack under the headers. That's why I put it in my notes at the bottom. I have used the board under the tire trick. Even slanted boards. This FJR front wheel is so light though I just sat down and raised it with my toes. Axel went in pretty easily. I agree about taking out the brakeline support bolts. Hence the entry in my notes. Did you use a non-magnetic tool to remove the sensor?

We disagree about the wheel bearings but that's just an old Coyote thing. Wheel bearing failure on bikes is pretty rare for sure. But when I looked at my NT bearings, the FJR bearings, etc my ancient aircraft mechanics education from the 1960s tells me they are underlubed. Do they have a great primary seal compared to the old car and aircraft wheel bearings? Yes. It just gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling to pack in a bunch of hi temp grease and push the primary seal back in so that the new grease gets forced around the ballbearings.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 06:13 PM
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We disagree about the wheel bearings but that's just an old Coyote thing. Wheel bearing failure on bikes is pretty rare for sure. But when I looked at my NT bearings, the FJR bearings, etc my ancient aircraft mechanics education from the 1960s tells me they are underlubed. Do they have a great primary seal compared to the old car and aircraft wheel bearings? Yes. It just gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling to pack in a bunch of hi temp grease and push the primary seal back in so that the new grease gets forced around the ballbearings.
Time for the "old dog" to learn new tricks

I changed my front-wheel bearings at 123000 miles. The ones I removed were in perfect condition.

Yamaha engineer that area very well, and they use top quality bearings.

Steve

2005 Yamaha FJR1300A
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Time for the "old dog" to learn new tricks

I changed my front-wheel bearings at 123000 miles. The ones I removed were in perfect condition.

Yamaha engineer that area very well, and they use top quality bearings.
LOL! Yes, I know...and I even have a cell phone! I am sure those bearing with that grease will out last the old Coyote!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 06:53 PM
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Ball bearings do not require massive quantities of grease. They only need to remain "wetted" by the grease. Before loosening any bolts test the wheel for free play in bearings. If none then the bearings do not need attention. If any slack is noticed then bearings must be replaced.

On reassembly a dab of grease is useful on the wheel spacers to minimize wear on the outer dust seals.

Loosen the 6mm pinch bolts on nut side before loosening the 22mm nut. On assembly the hex socket end of axle needs to be held when tightening the 22mm nut (the 22mm nut clamps the wheel bearings to the axle.) Only then should the 6mm pinch bolts be tightened. Observe tightening one of the pair loosens the other. Don't over tighten.

Use a 4mm hex key to remove the ABS sensor from backing plate.

Place a rag over the caliper when removing from disc (and installing) to prevent scratching of wheel. Especially noticeable on black rims. No block needed between caliper pads. However sometimes its almost impossible to put the caliper back over the disc but for the pads moving around. If this happens fold a piece of paper in half and place in the caliper between the pads. Then spread the open end of paper and insert disc using the paper as a guide to keep the pads separated while disc enters caliper. Remove paper.

I am not at all comfortable lifting the bike, even just a little, from the exhaust headers.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 09:24 PM
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Had similar grief raising front of my Nighthawk. I wonder if my overhead I beam in downstairs garage can be placed into use with an anchor point from bike to get the front wheel up? Might just have to take a look at that.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 01:12 AM
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Had similar grief raising front of my Nighthawk. I wonder if my overhead I beam in downstairs garage can be placed into use with an anchor point from bike to get the front wheel up? Might just have to take a look at that.
Got this on sale for $65 delivered:

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Got this on sale for $65 delivered:

That's pretty nifty...who makes it?
Some of my bikes, I can press down on the rear with two fingers and the front comes right up.
Not the FJR.
I wasnt that comfortable with raising the front end by the headers alone so I put big lead bricks on the back seat to counterbalance much of the weight on the front and then force needed on the headers was just a few lbs. Then I decided to use a few more lead bricks and the front was in the air so I put the board and hydrolic jack under the headers just for insurance.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ball bearings do not require massive quantities of grease. They only need to remain "wetted" by the grease. Before loosening any bolts test the wheel for free play in bearings. If none then the bearings do not need attention. If any slack is noticed then bearings must be replaced.

On reassembly a dab of grease is useful on the wheel spacers to minimize wear on the outer dust seals.

Loosen the 6mm pinch bolts on nut side before loosening the 22mm nut. On assembly the hex socket end of axle needs to be held when tightening the 22mm nut (the 22mm nut clamps the wheel bearings to the axle.) Only then should the 6mm pinch bolts be tightened. Observe tightening one of the pair loosens the other. Don't over tighten.

Use a 4mm hex key to remove the ABS sensor from backing plate.

Place a rag over the caliper when removing from disc (and installing) to prevent scratching of wheel. Especially noticeable on black rims. No block needed between caliper pads. However sometimes its almost impossible to put the caliper back over the disc but for the pads moving around. If this happens fold a piece of paper in half and place in the caliper between the pads. Then spread the open end of paper and insert disc using the paper as a guide to keep the pads separated while disc enters caliper. Remove paper.

I am not at all comfortable lifting the bike, even just a little, from the exhaust headers.
You are right about the bearings. In days of yore they were not sealed very well against the elements so the grease packing was one way to keep water out. The bearing came right out and we washed them, blow dried them, and repacked them using a packing tool or our hands and palms.... Now we have two good seals. I was ready, thanks to the youtubes, for unequal torqued 6 mm pinch bolts. And that is what I found. So I used my torque wrench carefully, sneeking up on each pair till they were torqued properly. The guy in the youtube who said torquing one will effect the other is right.

Anyone have a touch up paint they reccommend for the wheels?
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