Dual Horns Solution for 2013, 2014 FJR1300 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Dual Horns Solution for 2013, 2014 FJR1300

2013, 2014 FJR1300
(Earlier models nearly identical installation)

Installation of "PIAA SLIM LINE SPORTS HORN"
"
(also called 'PIAA Slender Horn'). Actually TWO horns. PIAA Part #85114.

TOOLS & SUPPLIES REQUIRED:
  • 4mm Hex wrench (in FJR1300 tool kit)
  • 10mm socket or wrench (wrench in FJR1300 tool kit).
  • Wire cutters.
  • 16 - 18 gauge wire, 2 lengths approx 2 feet long each.
  • 4 X female insulated blade crimp-on connectors
  • 2 X Female/Male Piggyback blade connectors.
  • Crimping Tool

The 2013 and 2014 FJR1300s have only the one horn (on the left side), ditching the second one on the right that previous model years had. This one horn makes only a feeble little "meep". It's likely the bare minimum horn the law will allow.

There are several horns out there, but the April 2014 "Motorcycle Consumer News" had a great horns comparison article** rating a number of the leading aftermarket motorcycle horns. There are louder ones out there, but your best option for the FJR1300 without getting into some serious modification work is the PIAA Slim Line Sports Horn, available at lots of places (I ordered mine from Amazon.com). My usual suppliers either did not carry them or have them in stock at the time. Despite what almost all the listings call it, there are actually TWO horns in the package - one 400 Hz and one 500 Hz horn. They are quite compact, using up not much more space than the stock horn.

(** Note: The PIAA horn rating was for the SINGLE 500 Hz horn, so it's sound rating of 114.9 DB is lower than for this dual horn setup, which is more likely to be around 127 - 130 DB.)

The two horns together draw about 5.7 amps, which is about the same as what the two stock horns on the FJR1300 up to 2012 drew. The horn switch is the same as previous years, so it should be fine without using a relay. Although installing a relay would be 'recommended' if you have the resources to do so.


INSTALLATION:

1. Un-plug the stock horn (two push-on connectors - easy to get at), remove the 4mm hex screw that mounts it, and remove the horn.

2. I recommend installing the 500 Hz horn on the left side of bike, and the 400 Hz on the right (they are clearly labeled). I fiddled with the fitting a bit and found this is the best way. NOTE: The instructions say to NOT loosen any of the screws or bolts on the horns - this is important. I put a lock-washer and a bit of medium Lock-Tite on the screw when I installed. Make sure you turn the horn as far counter-clockwise it will go in the braced to give the electrical connectors the most space from that bracket as possible.


2012 & EARLIER MODELS NOTE: These came factory with 2 horns installed in these exact locations. So for these models, you do not need to do any wiring - just un-plug and remove old horns, install and plug in these new ones.

2. Prepare your wiring. I used a piece of 2-wire 16 gauge, cut to about 2 feet long. I crimped on two insulated female blade connectors. Thread the wire up around the top radiator bracket so the wire goes from the horn up and back, around the top bracket, and runs along the top of the rad to the other side, then around that bracket and down. Plug the wires onto the right horn. It does not matter what polarity, so they can plug on either way.

3. Undo the 10mm bolt that holds the top radiator mount on the right side (right side of bike. On your left when looking at it from the front). Mount the other horn here. I recommend some Lock-Tite on the threads. Install the horn. Remember: the horn opening should point down.

4. for the left side horn, which replaced the stock horn, I simply popped on two "Piggyback" blade connectors. These are sometimes called "Double Male/Female Disconnects" or "3-way adapter with two male and 1 female". A package containing 2 or 4 of them is around $2 at Radio Shack (or "The Source" or Canadian Tire). Plug these on to the horn in the way which enables them to slide on fully to the connector.



Crimp on insulated female blade connectors to the new wire and plug onto the piggyback connector on the horn.

6. Turn the front wheel of the bike all way left and right and check clearance. Good idea to take off the centre stand, sit on bike, hold front brake, turn wheel all the way, and push hard down on the handlebars to compress the struts and have an assistant look to make sure nothing touches the horns. They should be fine, but always a great idea to check at home in your garage first before finding out on the road.

7. Turn on ignition and fire the horn a few times. Then feel the horns to make sure they are still on tight.

8. You may want to put some of that waterproofing electrical connector goop on the connectors, but it's probably not necessary.


MY REVIEW:

I think these horns are an excellent solution for the FJR1300. They bolt right on in the spaces designed into the bike for horns, easy as possible to wire up (and no relay required), very good quality, and yes - they are LOUD! If you peel off the stickers, they look quite 'factory', thanks to them fitting nicely in the spaces designed for 2 factory horns.

The package of 2 horns is about $40 - $50. I would recommend this for anyone with the single horn 2013 - 2014 FJR1300, and even replace earlier model year factory horns. Change your "beep" (2012 and earlier) or "meep" (2013 - 2014) to a "HONK!" and be safer!
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Geoff Falconar
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Last edited by sBandit; 05-03-2014 at 12:22 AM.
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 07:27 AM
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This is great thank you, I was looking for a simple solution for the weak horn and didn't want to ride a horn with a bike attached to it.

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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 07:56 AM
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i'm not sure how the Gen 2 wiring differs, if any. but on the other forum i helped a 2013 owner figure an electrical problem.

he added a horn to the stock wiring. it worked fine in his garage. on the road in an emergency situation, he hit the horn while engaging the brakes. this combination popped the 10-Amp "Signal Fuse". so he was left with no horn, no turnsignals and no brake lights.

i would really like to do the dual horns like you did, but am leary on the extra electrical load.

2013 FJR
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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 07:59 AM
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Cool. The piggy back connectors sound great to avoid splicing into existing wiring.

Amazon has both a single 500Hz and the combo 400/500Hz. For whatever reason they are about the same price for either one horn or the dual horn. Go Figure?

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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-30-2014, 04:29 PM
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I was on my 2013 at 65mph and tried the horn. "I" couldn't hear it! So much for the guy in the cager. Found your post and immediately ordered them. Thanks so much for your help.
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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve_g View Post
i'm not sure how the Gen 2 wiring differs, if any. but on the other forum i helped a 2013 owner figure an electrical problem.

he added a horn to the stock wiring. it worked fine in his garage. on the road in an emergency situation, he hit the horn while engaging the brakes. this combination popped the 10-Amp "Signal Fuse". so he was left with no horn, no turnsignals and no brake lights.

i would really like to do the dual horns like you did, but am leary on the extra electrical load.
Just a thought, but since the application of a horn is by nature, a very short and temporary load, you could probably up the fuse to the next amperage size, and avoid that problem, but it would be a good idea to check the wire gage in the wiring harness to confirm that the provided wire could handle the load limited by the new fuse, just in case something ELSE which was not of a temporary nature load were to cause a continuous short on that circuit.
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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clutchless View Post
Just a thought, but since the application of a horn is by nature, a very short and temporary load, you could probably up the fuse to the next amperage size, and avoid that problem, but it would be a good idea to check the wire gage in the wiring harness to confirm that the provided wire could handle the load limited by the new fuse, just in case something ELSE which was not of a temporary nature load were to cause a continuous short on that circuit.
the power circuit goes to several devices. from what i remember:tail lights, turn signals, horn, glove box solenoid, ecu.

there error code that he got was related to a open/short in the braking system. i think the ABS light also came on.

if the wiring is the same as Gen 2s, then i would feel comfortable wiring 2 horns like the OP. i need to get my hands on a gen 2 FSM to compare with my Gen 3.

2013 FJR
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve_g View Post
i'm not sure how the Gen 2 wiring differs, if any. but on the other forum i helped a 2013 owner figure an electrical problem.

he added a horn to the stock wiring. it worked fine in his garage. on the road in an emergency situation, he hit the horn while engaging the brakes. this combination popped the 10-Amp "Signal Fuse". so he was left with no horn, no turnsignals and no brake lights.

i would really like to do the dual horns like you did, but am leary on the extra electrical load.
2 Things:

1. Don't try to shortcut the ground on the second horn. At first I figured I'd just run one positive wire from first (left side) horn to the second horn, then just a wire to ground for the second horn. Won't work. Need to splice off from the existing factory wiring for first horn BOTH wires over to the second horn.

2. Factory single horn draws about 2.6 amps. These two PIAA Slim Line horns specifically draw about 5.2 amps total. If you are putting anything else on, you should use a HORN RELAY. And same if you are having ANY kind of problems after installing these horns. Relay is relatively easy to install. Basically, the power goes straight from the battery to the horns (you should have a fuse in there though). But the horn button, and existing wiring, only has a minimal amount of power draw as it only draws about 1/4 of an amp to power the relay. The PIAA horn instructions include info and simple wiring diagram of using a horn relay.

There is an excellent post on installing horn relay on FJR1200 HERE.

Note that most other aftermarket horns draw much more amperage, and anything over a TOTAL of about 5 amps and a bit should use a horn relay.

Geoff Falconar
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Last edited by sBandit; 05-01-2014 at 01:01 PM.
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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I'd also like to add something about installing extra loud horns.

1. Most will not properly fit in factory horn locations. Be careful! Cutting into things and mounting heavy objects on existing bolts/screws can cause damage you will regret.

2. Some people get a bit obsessive and put SUPER loud horns on their bike. I have experienced and heard of several cases where this made the situation worse as the other drivers had absolutely no mental image of a motorcycle when they heard the super loud horn and were fixated on finding the big truck that was honking - thus totally 'lost' the motorcycle that was in harm's way. Very bad situation. You should have horn that's loud enough to attract attention of other drivers, but they should instantly be able to associate that horn with your bike.

Geoff Falconar
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 02:58 PM
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Thanks SBandit.

Completed my install on the 2014 1300ES. No issues so far.

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